Yes… If everything was as simple as shown in the picture… Insert the plug into the Universal4lock module and you're done. Moreover, maybe somewhere in Europe or America in some super-advanced "smart" apartments this has already been implemented, but the harsh reality still forces us to connect the switch in the old fashioned way, using screwdrivers, pliers, etc. It's about how to do it right, and will be discussed in this material.
Types of connections
A switch is a means by which you can close and open an electrical circuit so that a device included in this circuit (for example, a light bulb) starts or stops its work.
The simplest switch is a single-key switch with two contacts. With it, you can control the on and off of one light bulb. The simplest connection is the usual connection with the closure of two contacts in a simple circuit.
But for convenience, especially in large buildings with several floors, as well as in buildings whose layout includes long corridors, walk-through switches are mounted. With this switch, you can turn on the light in one corner of the room, and turn it off in the opposite. Why is it needed:
- You entered the bedroom, turned on the light at the entrance, lay down in bed and started, for example, reading a book. We started to fall asleep. It is clear that while you get up and reach the switch located at the entrance, you will wake up. For this, a second switch is needed, located directly at the head of the bed. He patted it and the light turned off. And you don't have to get up.
- You enter a fairly long and dark corridor, turn on the light, go through it all the way to the other end. You no longer need the light in it, but to turn it off, you will have to go back again, and, turning it off, make your way along the corridor now in complete darkness, almost to the touch. To avoid this absurdity, at the other end of the corridor, a second, walk-through switch is installed, with which you can turn off the light without returning.
- You have a luxurious house with three floors. We went up the stairs, turned on the light. We got up. Connecting a walk-through switch on the top floor saves you the trouble of having the lights on the stairs all the time until the next time you go down it and turn off the only switch.
Tools to prepare
Listtools and consumables required for wiring and connecting switches, the following:
- switch (or pair - in case of walk-through) with plastic sockets;
- cable with the number of cores in accordance with the types of switches and the presence of a central ground;
- wall chaser (grinder with ceramic disc);
- roulette;
- marker or pencil;
- Puncher with a nozzle for drilling a socket for a socket and a spatula bit for gouging a strobe;
- two screwdrivers - Phillips and flat;
- indicator;
- trowel, alabaster, plaster;
- pliers.
Work Plan
Work on connecting the switch begins with the development of an action plan. It looks like this:
- development of circuit diagram;
- marking future strobes for wiring and sockets for switches;
- termination of wires, installation of switches, junction boxes (if required by the scheme);
- connect switch(s).
Wiring, cable termination
In accordance with the drawn diagram and the marking of the connection of the switch (switches), applied with a marker on the walls, strobes are made for embedding wires in them, going from the junction box to the switches. Strobes are made 15-20 cm above the ceiling, if there is already wiring, then 15-20 cm below the existing line, but strictly horizontally. Sockets are made for switches. The descents to the switches are strictly vertical.
Now everything is ready to proceed with the installation and connection of the key switches. After that, a distribution box, socket boxes for switches sit on the gypsum mixture, wiring is started along the strobes, which can be immediately repaired with a spatula and alabaster mixture. After the wiring is completed, we clean with a knife the ends of the wires of the wiring going to the switches by 6-7 cm, and to the junction box for twisting - by 1-1.5 cm.
Connecting a simple single-key
Connecting a single-key switch is the simplest, designed to control one connection from one place. It happens according to the following schemes. Two options are given here: the first does not provide a central earth wire, the second does.
Without grounding, we throw a two-core cable onto the switch from the box: red - phase, brown - phase return from the switch from the box to the chandelier two-core, where brown is the phase from the switch, and blue is zero.
In the case of grounding, a green ground wire is added, which is thrown onto the metal case of the chandelier, and a three-core wire goes from the box to the chandelier. Due to the lack of a metal case, grounding is optional.
Connecting a simple two-button
Connecting a two-gang switch will make it possible to control two groups of connections from one place at once, that is, if there are several light bulbs in the chandelier. With this switch, you can adjust the lighting modes, turning off or on the additionala light bulb or a pair of light bulbs. In this case, the connection diagrams (depending on the presence of grounding) are as follows.
Here you can see that a single phase (red) is supplied to the switches, and from them two separate (one from each key - gray and brown) returns are already returning to the box. In this case, a three-wire wire is used. A four-core wire should already go from the box to the chandelier, containing two pairs each, which, together with zero, are fed to the chandelier. Two two-wire wires can be used. One pair is brown, carrying the phase from the switch key, and blue zero, the second is gray, the phase from the other switch key, and blue zero. Each pair is fed to its own group (lamp or pair of lamps).
If the chandelier body is metal, it should be grounded, which means that in this case, 6 wires (2 three-wire wires) will have to be used to connect the double switch in the "box / chandelier" section, as shown in the figure.
Connecting a single-key through passage
Any pass-through switch is equipped with not one, but two opposite contacts, as a result of which, opening the contacts when turned off, it transfers the connection to another contact. The connection of this type of switch is based on the connection of the usual one, only the opposite terminals of the contacts here are the walk-through switches scattered around the room and interconnected by wires going to the phase of the lamp.
That is, if in the case of mounting a conventional switch, the phase from the box to one of the terminals andthe return of the phase from the switch to the box from the other terminal comes from the same switch, then in the case of through passages, the phase is supplied to one switch, and the phase is returned to the box from the second switch. And the contact is made by making and breaking the parallel lines that permanently connect the contacts of the switches, as shown in the following figure.
It turns out that a phase (one red wire) is supplied from the box to the switch to a single terminal, and a pair of parallel lines (wires) are returned from the switch from two opposite terminals to the box, which should directly follow to another switch and come to two terminals between which power is transferred. And already from the single terminal of the second switch, a core comes out, which, returning to the box, will go to power the chandelier, together with a zero blue wire going directly and a green ground wire (if provided). Thus, in both cases, three-wire wires should be used from the socket to the switch, and three-wire wires (in case of grounding) and two-wire wires - in the absence of grounding will go to the chandelier.
Connection of a two-key through passage
The connection of two-gang pass-through switches is built according to the same type, however, it is worth remembering that here each single terminal has its own pair of terminals of parallel lines, between which switching is performed. The principle of operation of the circuit in this case is as follows:
Anyone who understands the connection of a single-gang switch will not be difficult to connect both two and three-gang.
Conclusion
It would be useful to recall that in order to avoid electric shock, all work on connecting the switch to the network should be carried out in the mode when all machines in the main panel of the dwelling are turned off, that is, the entire home electrical network (or the area where work is carried out on connection), de-energized.
