One of the most sought after tools in home repair is the electric drill. However, as a result of intensive use, the tool may fail. If the owner of such a useful item has elementary basic knowledge, skills and abilities, then repairing a drill with your own hands will not be difficult. You can not call a specialist, which will save a little.
Design features
Any electric drill consists of a housing where electrical and mechanical parts are placed. There is also a cartridge in which the drill is attached (on the main shaft of the tool).
What is included in the electric part of the drill? Usually these are the following components:
- Contact brushes (they are fixed in the brush holder).
- Start button.
- Engine speed control.
- Reverse.
- Electric motor.
- Starting capacitor.
- Power cable (cord).
Mechanical part includes gearbox and systembearings. Without electrics and mechanics, the functioning of the tool is impossible. The responsibility of the gearbox is to transfer rotation from the electric motor to the shaft.
In an impact drill (hammer drill), the mechanics are more complex. Here, the mechanism provides not only rotation, but also the shock-translational movement of the drill. Therefore, there are gears in the perforator, as well as two pistons, percussion and flying, a ram and a striker.
Selection of spare parts
During maintenance or do-it-yourself repairs on a Bosch drill, wear on some parts can be detected. Of course, they need timely replacement. Many craftsmen warn that only original parts should be used.
Also, don't look for any complicated workarounds. A typical example of a gross and unforgivable mistake - instead of a broken button of the standard version, a regular toggle switch is placed. This kind of "repair" should be avoided as it can be dangerous to use such a drill.
The market for spare parts for power tools is quite diverse, so you can always find the right spare part. If the drill was bought in one of the stores of a large distribution network, then finding the part will not be a problem. All that is needed is to determine the brand of the manufacturer and the exact name of the instrument model. For example, Bosch. Do-it-yourself drill repair will be greatly facilitated by knowing this information. Usually it is applied to the nameplate of any device.
This is due to the fact that variousmodifications of the same model may contain both compatible components and completely unsuitable parts. You should not only focus on their appearance, but also clarify information regarding the main dimensions and dimensions of parts.
It's not so difficult with the components of the drive mechanism, since the data can be found easily:
- There are bearing markings on the protective rings of the separators.
- Nomenclature codes of gears are stamped on them.
As practice shows, it is very easy to find spare parts for many models of the most popular tools. Drills that have been in operation for more than thirty years appear as an exception.
What you may need from the snap
To be able to perform elementary repairs of your own electric drill, you cannot do without the appropriate equipment. Usually it all depends on the nature of the malfunction, but in most cases, to do the repair of the Makita drill (or any other manufacturer) with your own hands, you will definitely need the following tools:
- Screwdriver - for disassembling the body of the device.
- Multimeter - with it you can find a malfunction in the electrical circuit.
- Sandpaper - for stripping oxidized contacts.
Based on what exactly caused the breakdown, you will need to purchase some components:
- Gears.
- Brushes.
- Bearings.
- Trigger (button).
If the previous disassembly of the drill was done a long time ago, then it shouldas a preventive measure, change the lubricant in the gearbox. This will not only significantly reduce the load on the electric motor, but also increase the service life of manual equipment. Bearings also need lubrication. For this reason, after eliminating the root causes of the malfunction, these parts should be diagnosed.
Do-it-yourself repair of a drill gearbox
If it becomes necessary to disassemble the tool (breakdown, simple replacement of a part or another reason), then it makes sense to pay attention to the gearbox and evaluate its technical condition. It may have worn out some parts of the transmission mechanism.
In most drills, the gearbox is quite simple - two flat gears that are made of metal or hard plastic. For diagnostics, it is worth blocking the engine spindle and trying to turn the gears. In this case, it is important to assess the degree of backlash, and also to check whether there is a slip at different points of the transmission.
When it comes to professional tools, the gearbox can be equipped with a gear selector or it contains an adjustable safety clutch. Only these parts are not repairable. Therefore, you have to install new ones.
To replace the gear, you can not do without the help of a snap ring remover. When removing the part, it is important not to lose the key, since it is very difficult to find a replacement for it. In the course of repairing an impact drill with your own hands, when the gearbox has already been disassembled, you should remove the anchor completely, which will allow you to evaluatesmooth running and check for play in the bearings.
Armed with an awl, you can remove the protective covers of the separator in order to make sure it is safe. For the mandrel, it is best to choose a copper tube or a wooden block with a longitudinal hole.
After manipulating the gearbox, you need to remove the remaining grease and fill the chamber with new molybdenum paste (up to 2/3 of the volume). Before reassembling in reverse order, make sure there are no foreign objects.
Drill chuck
The most common mechanical failure is turning the drill in the chuck. This indicates that the clamping degree has become too low. As a rule, a replacement is needed, but not every master is familiar with how the cartridge is removed. Do-it-yourself repair of an impact drill depends on the complexity of the tool device.
Sophisticated equipment
Models of tools with power from 600 to 800 W are characterized by a wedge-tapered chuck. The spindle is a sleeve where the shank of the collet chuck enters. To remove it, you need to find a hole on the side of the sleeve and insert a powerful screwdriver there. It should pry the end of the shank and push it out.
However, there may not be a hole. Then the sleeve must be clamped in a vice and the cartridge should be struck with a medium-strength hammer through a piece of wood. They should not be chaotic - they should be alternated at diametrically opposite points on four sides.
Low power electric drills
In low-powertools, the spindle at the end is equipped with a right-hand external thread, onto which the cartridge is screwed. In its central part there is a hole, but with a left-hand thread for a shunt bolt. This fastener has a head designed for a square or Phillips screwdriver. It needs to be unscrewed.
Further, do-it-yourself repair of a drill chuck comes down to the following. First you need to block the engine impeller, which can be done with a nail. Then try to break the cartridge in a counterclockwise direction with a sharp, but with moderate force movement.
Electrical Faults
Now it is worth touching on the malfunctions of the electrical part of the drill. In almost every model, the corresponding compartment is located not just anywhere, but in the handle (the button is also located there). In most cases, troubleshooting requires complete disassembly of the instrument.
As a rule, this does not cause difficulties, but there may be some nuances. The fact is that sometimes the body is held not only by screws, but also by clamps. Having disassembled the case into two halves, you should remember, but it is better to photograph the location of the elements and wiring. For some models, the layout can be quite intricate, which makes it a little difficult to repair a drill yourself.
The main symptom of an electrical failure is that the device simply does not turn on. To begin with, it is recommended to move the cord (in the place where it exits the case) with the drill power button pressed, as partialwire break. Such a malfunction is observed in 90% of cases. If so, the tool will start working again.
Start button failure
It is not difficult to identify the malfunction of this part of an electric tool. You will need to disassemble the body of the drill, connect the power cord and use an indicator screwdriver to check for voltage at the input contacts of the button.
If the current is present, it is worth pressing the trigger. If the drill engine does not show signs of life at this moment, then the malfunction is more serious. Then there are two options for further events:
- Try to repair the trigger yourself.
- Change button.
It is better to prefer the second option, although there are certain nuances here (we will discuss them below). However, if you want to enrich yourself with personal experience or just usefully pass the time, you can try to fix the trigger when you repair the drill with your own hands.
Button repair
For some models of electric drills, this part is equipped with a motor speed controller, and also has a rotor rotation direction controller (reverse). This is a fairly complex design, so repairing a button should be done with a high degree of care. Often, after disassembly, its further use is not possible.
Inside the button of such a complex device there are many small parts that can fall out when the case is opened. They are easily lost, it is difficult to put them back in their original place. Therefore, this part of the work should be done with increased attention.
After careful disassembly, clean the terminals from carbon deposits (perhaps that is why the current did not pass) and assemble everything in the reverse order. Next, you need to check the button for operability.
Button replacement
As for the starting mechanisms, which are devoid of a speed controller and the direction of rotation of the engine, then everything is not so simple here either. Although their design is somewhat lightened, it is still quite complex. However, it often makes no sense to repair the drill button with your own hands, since it is much more practical to install a new one.
To do this, it is worth visiting the nearest store that sells spare parts for electric tools.
Here you need to take into account an important nuance. There is a great variety of drill models, so not all buttons are exactly the same. When going shopping, you need to rewrite the data of the old part on a piece of paper. But even with such actions, misunderstandings may arise, since it is likely that the purchased button with the same parameters will not be installed in the body of the power tool, since there are differences in the design of this mechanism, due to which it is impossible to fix it.
For this reason, the best option is to take the old button with you and use it to pick up a new part with exactly the same parameters, including dimensions.
Brushes
Another common problem with electric drills is motor brush wear. When they are worn down by 40%, you can findinterruptions in the work of the drill and even sparks. With an even greater degree of wear, the power unit simply will not start. Replacing obsolete parts at home is not that difficult.
In some models there is an opportunity for do-it-yourself repair of email. drills (in particular, replacement of brushes) without opening the case. There are special plugs for this. It is enough to unscrew them and replace the old worn brushes with new ones. When choosing new parts, you should pay attention not only to their dimensions, but also to the section profile.
You should not allow too much wear of the brushes, as this is fraught with a number of troubles. Firstly, the gap between them and the collector plates increases, which leads to increased sparking. Secondly, because of this, the plates are very hot, as a result of which they can move away from the base of the collector. This may result in the need to replace the anchor.
Engine malfunctions
Such breakdowns can completely disable the necessary device. A clear example of this is a break or short circuit of the windings. In this case, the tool makes extraneous sounds (like lowing), or the engine refuses to start at all.
In this case, when you do your own repair of the drill, you need to disassemble the body.
You can determine exactly where the damage occurred (in the stator or rotor) by the presence of traces of melted and blackened varnish. It also helps to check the circuit withusing a multimeter. Anchor with impeller, including the stator, can be bought at any store. Next, you need to replace the old one with a new one.
