Before performing work, you must at least in general terms familiarize yourself with the basic provisions of the "Electrical Installation Rules" (PUE), which spell out all the requirements for the design and installation of electrical wiring in buildings for various purposes.
Optimal design is the key to success and safety
At the initial stage, according to the information received, it is necessary to draw up a general sketch of the garage room, its walls and ceiling, indicating the dimensions and proposed locations of the input electrical panel, junction boxes, sockets, switches and lighting fixtures. This takes into account the location of stationary equipment (workbench, welding machine, etc.) and the features of the building structure.
The next stage is the transfer of the plan to the area: they draw with chalk on the elements of the building the installation site of electrical equipment and consumers, the route of the supply wires and cables. When choosing a place to install a distribution switchboard, you shouldthink about how to lead the light into the garage from the power line. Garage cooperatives are characterized by their own branched power network, there will be no special connection problems, but for a separate building, an air or underground supply line will have to be laid.
Types of mounting
There are two ways to mount the light in the garage - using open or hidden wiring. The second option is typical for concrete and brick buildings. It involves the use of technological voids of walls, floor slabs for laying cable products or its placement under a layer of plaster in specially made channels - strobes.
At the same time, the shield, sockets and switches also cut into the base, which is associated with high labor costs and the need to purchase or rent a specialized tool (wall chaser, professional puncher). Therefore, do-it-yourself light in a garage is more often mounted in an open way, that is, on the surface of building elements.
Selection of electrical materials and tools
Main materials for project implementation:
- Introductory electrical panel containing a meter and protective automation.
- Electrical wires, cables and protective covers (cable channel, corrugated pipe or metal sleeves and trays).
- Junction boxes, switches, sockets and lamps for general and local lighting.
When choosing the cross-section of wires, you should take into account the power of consumers and be guided by the following table:
| Section of conductor (mm2) | copper/load(kW) | aluminum/ load (kW) |
| 1, 5 | 4, 1 | - |
| 2, 5 | 5, 9 | 4, 4 |
| 4, 0 | 8, 3 | 6, 1 |
| 6, 0 | 10, 1 | 7, 9 |
| 10, 0 | 15, 4 | 11, 0 |
| 16, 0 | 18, 7 | 13, 2 |
It is preferable to use copper wires with flame retardant insulation (the marking ends with the "ng" index). In addition, copper favorably differs from aluminum in greater resistance to physical impacts and deformations, increased service life and good electrical conductivity during surface oxidation. In the case of combined use, in no case should conductors of dissimilar metals be connected using the "twisting" method. For this, terminal blocks with screw clamps or WAGO-type clamps are designed.
Of the tools you can not do without a sharp knife, wire cutters or side cutters, pliers, screwdrivers, electric drills. The presence of a cordless screwdriver will greatly facilitate the work. And since the garage is without light, you will need an electric extension cord and a portable lamp for comfortable work.
Switchboard. Electrical Safety
How to make the light in the garage so that the working and staying conditions in it are not only comfortable, but also safe? This is mainlydepends on the correct configuration and connection of the introductory electrical distribution board.
The best place for its location is near the entrance gate. If necessary, it will be convenient to completely de-energize the structure. A shield is capable of preventing all kinds of emergencies, which includes:
- Individual metering device (IPU, electric meter). Records the amount of electricity consumed.
- Automatic switches (AB). Protect the power system from overloads and high short circuit currents. The main AB, designed for maximum load (from 16 to 50 A), is mounted in front of the IPU, the rest - in front of each group of consumers.
- Residual current devices (RCD). The electrical circuit is switched off when a person comes into contact with a damaged insulating coating or live parts and a certain leakage current limit (30mA) is exceeded. Mounted directly behind the electric meter. AV and RCD successfully replace differential automata, combining the functions of these two devices in one case.
Additionally, the electrical panel is equipped with a step-down transformer, a voltage control relay, zero and ground busbars.
In conditions of high humidity and an abundance of metal surfaces, the risk of electric shock increases dramatically. Therefore, special attention should be paid to grounding, since it is it that reliably guarantees the operability of protective devices. Along the perimeter of the floor or the bottom of the wallsa metal strip is laid in the garage, to which electrodes driven into the ground are connected with flexible copper conductors (for example, 3-4 pieces of an angular profile with a minimum length of 2 m), stationary energy consumers, a locksmith's workbench and a ground bus in the electrical distribution cabinet. In exceptional cases, the functions of the electrodes can be performed by the reinforcement of the concrete foundation of the structure.
Wiring. Connecting sockets and switches
Cable routes (cable channels, corrugated pipes with wire, strobes) should be run parallel to the ceiling at a distance of 15-20 cm from it. Power and lighting lines are powered by different machines and are conducted separately. Distribution boxes are mounted at the branch points.
Descents are performed perpendicular to the floor, taking into account the fact that the height of the switches is not more than 150-170 cm, sockets - 60-80 cm (the exception is sockets above the workbench: they are mounted directly above the table top). With an open mounting method, overhead devices are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws or dowels for quick installation. When hidden - they are mounted in metal sockets pre-buried and fixed with cement mortar (gypsum or alabaster).
Light requirements. Location of fixtures
During the day, sunlight makes certain adjustments to the illumination of the room. In the garage, additional lighting is carried out through window openings or gates, but it is necessary to proceed from the fact that the car is being repairedwill have and in the dark.
The most significant indicators of lighting are efficiency and uniformity. And although fluorescent lamps have been deservedly popular with car owners for many years, it is worth buying LED lamps in the garage. Their price is gradually decreasing, and the quality of the luminous flux is constantly growing.
Another important principle is the modularity of lighting. The light in the garage is usually divided into general and local. Additional lights are needed above the work table, shelves, machines and gate openings. Good illumination of the surrounding area will greatly facilitate parking at night.
Inspection pit electrical equipment
The inspection pit will turn any garage into a full-fledged auto repair shop.
There will be no problems with the light and electrical safety of this repair area if the supply voltage is not higher than 36 V. For this purpose, a step-down transformer (380; 220V / 36; 24; 12V) is used, which can be placed in the input distribution shield. Luminaires with a sealed design (class IP65 and higher) and protective grilles are installed in niches along the walls of the inspection pit.
A portable lamp of the appropriate voltage will also be useful for illuminating darkened and hard-to-reach places in the car. To work with power tools, use an outlet installed outside the pit, equipped with a residual current device.
At the final stage of work, before connecting the light togarage to the supply voltage, it is worth once again checking the correct switching of the junction boxes, making sure that there are no bare wires.
Ventilation and heating systems
Effective natural ventilation will prevent the active development of corrosion of the car body, but with frequent welding or painting work in the garage, forced air circulation is necessary. It is better to power the exhaust fan motor from a separate circuit breaker and lay a separate line to it.
Directly from the shield receive power and heaters. For fire safety purposes, the use of home-made devices and heaters with open heating elements is prohibited in garages.
A few words about automation
Automated garage systems (entrance gate control, microclimate maintenance, etc.) make the life of motorists convenient and comfortable, but require a backup power source.
This can be a gasoline or diesel generator with automatic start. In the event of a power failure in the public network, the engine starts, and the switching equipment switches the automation and the light in the garage to power from the generator.
