Many people are interested in how to make two-level plasterboard ceilings for the living room. A photo of various options is offered in our article. At first glance, it may seem that only professionals can do this task. In fact, anyone who has patience, perseverance and follows the technology will cope with such work.
Finishes and designs
There are many options for two-level plasterboard ceilings: illuminated, curved, straight. The simplest and most accessible of them is the lower-level device in the form of a rectangular box.
This design is designed for mounting fixtures. The niche formed between the ceiling and the additional tier is used for lighting.
Top-level trim can be done in the following ways:
- Wet. Ceilingleveled by plastering using building mixtures.
- Sheathing the ceiling with plasterboard along the guides or gluing to the base.
- A two-level stretch ceiling drywall device, the photo of which is presented in the article.
The material for the frame device can be wooden blocks or special metal profiles. The latter are most preferred, since they are much more durable than wood, do not require additional processing, and are not subject to deformation from temperature changes and changes in humidity.
Dowels or anchor wedges are used as fasteners. The latter are preferable, since they hold the structure more securely, especially in cases where the floors are mounted from hollow core slabs.
Special metal profiles for the frame device are divided into ceiling (PP), rack (PS), ceiling guides (PNP), guides (PN), flexible (GP) and suspensions for ceiling mounting (PP). They differ from each other in rigidity, size and method of application:
- PP are made of galvanized steel with dimensions of 27x60 mm. Used to mount the top-level frame, box and niche.
- PNP are used to connect ceiling profiles to each other and fasten the frame to the ceiling structure. They have a size of 27x28 mm.
- Racks of boxes and transitions between levels are prepared from PS. Unlike PP and PN, they have increased rigidity, which is achievedincreasing the height of the side wall up to 50 mm. Available in 50 and 100 mm widths.
- PN are intended for tying together racks and attaching them to the upper and lower levels of the ceiling. They have the same width as the racks. Wall height - 40 mm.
- Curvilinear transitions are made with a flexible galvanized profile.
- A suspension is used to connect the floor to the frame.
To assemble the frame, you will need self-tapping screws with a press washer.
For lining the ceiling and boxes, various types of drywall are used:
- Sheet 9.5 mm thick.
- Moisture resistant sheet for high humidity environments.
- Wall durable.
- Thick (12.5mm).
For the preparation of drywall for painting, as well as for sealing joints and fasteners at the joints, ready-made universal and finishing putty gypsum compounds will be required.
Polymer mesh with a fine mesh is used for processing joints under putty in order to prevent cracking. The outer corners of the transition between the upper and lower levels are reinforced with a rigid or flexible corner, plastic or galvanized.
For the final preparation of the ceiling and boxes for painting, you will need a primer. It will reduce paint consumption and improve its adhesion to the surface.
Be sure to make a scale drawing before starting the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling with backlight. The photo shows that the design can be very intricate. Viadrawing, you can choose a suitable form for a given room and avoid overspending of materials. Upon completion of the project, the required amount of materials is calculated and work is carried out on the installation of electrical wiring.
Mounting the top level frame
The actual ceiling, which is the top level, can be plastered, stretched and made of drywall. Basically, the last option is considered. It allows you to hide all the irregularities of the base and place lamps and lights on both levels.
The simplest option is to assemble the crate from guide profiles and straight ceiling hangers:
- Horizontal markings are applied to the walls. In the case of installation in the upper level of built-in luminaires, it is carried out with a distance from the ceiling at a distance of 4 to 8 cm. The exact parameters depend on the size of the luminaire and the convenience of its connection to the network.
- Fastening is done end-to-end or with a slight overlap. The profile is applied to the wall along the marked marking line, drilled with a perforator along with the wall and fastened with dowel-nails every 500 mm.
- With a step of 600 mm, the marking of the places for mounting ceiling profiles is applied. Then, with the width of a standard drywall sheet equal to 1200 mm, its edges will be placed along the axis of the ceiling profiles.
- Also, with a step of 600 mm, suspensions are attached along the ceiling profile placement line.
- Guide profiles are cut to size and inserted into ceiling hangers. For their preliminary fixation, their "legs" are bent towards each other.around the ceiling track profile.
- A cord is stretched between the guide profiles of opposite walls, along which the position of the ceiling profiles is aligned along the horizon.
- The “legs” of the suspensions are unbent one by one, the ceiling profiles are set along the cord and fastened with self-tapping screws.
Cutting a galvanized profile is done with metal shears. When processed with a grinder, the zinc coating heats up and evaporates, and the profiles rust over time.
Mounting the lower level frame
Let's consider how to install a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. The photo shows several simple options for consideration.
Installation of a ceiling box for fixtures
This is the easiest option that allows you to mount lamps in a box, distributing them around the entire perimeter of the room. Additionally, a chandelier is usually placed in the center of the upper level. Also, the ceiling box is used to hide communications: electrical wiring, ventilation, etc. The vertical transition between levels is performed from a rack or ceiling profile.
Let's learn in detail how to make a two-level drywall ceiling:
- Box borders are marked on the walls and ceiling.
- The guides are attached to the walls with dowels and the upper frame with self-tapping screws. The operation can also be performed after facing the upper level with drywall. In this case, the self-tapping screws for attaching the PN to the upper level should be longer.
- Straight to the cratethe frame of the second level is mounted.
- Stands are made of PP and are screwed to the ceiling rails with short self-tapping screws in increments equal to the width of the drywall sheet.
- Two PNP are connected with self-tapping screws so that the racks and transverse profiles of the crate of the box are installed in the resulting structure at a right angle, that is, the bottom wall of one profile should lie on the side wall of the other.
- The resulting double structure is put on the lower ends of the racks and fastened with self-tapping screws.
- Cross profiles are inserted perpendicular to the uprights into the double profile and connected to the wall guides. The resulting box-shaped structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. If the width of the box exceeds 60 cm, the transverse profiles of the box are additionally attached to the ceiling with hangers.
Ceiling box with niche for lighting
How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with a niche? Same as in the example above. Only a small addition is required. After marking, guides are attached to the wall and base. Racks are mounted to them. Their bottom edges should be flush with the bottom shelf of the rail on the wall.
Further, the process is somewhat different from the installation of the ceiling box. So, how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling? You need to do the following:
- The cross profiles are attached to the rails along the wall and directly to the uprights.
- To form a niche, transverse profiles are produced forrack 100-250 mm.
- The cantilever parts of the transverse profiles are combined. The resulting structure protruding from the wall is sheathed with drywall. Niche gets finished look.
Two-level ceiling with curved transitions
The curvilinear transition between the upper and lower levels is usually assembled with a height of 100 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a flexible profile, fixing it with self-tapping screws with first-level PP rails. If there is no flexible profile, PN can replace it.
When the height of the frame is more than 100 mm, the technique described above is used (for mounting the box). The required frame height of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is formed by studs and double rails.
Sheathing of two-level structures with plasterboard sheets
To prepare sheets for facing curved surfaces, they are cut with an electric jigsaw. Cutouts for lamps are made in the same way, pre-drilling a hole for the file in the fragment to be removed. It is better to break straight sections by first cutting them along the marking line. In this case, almost no dust is generated.
How it's done:
- The cutting line is drawn several times along the attached profile or ruler with a sharpened knife.
- The sheet is laid on the edge of a table or stack of drywall so that the edge of the table or other support coincides with the cut line.
- Pressing the free edge of the sheet separates the free-hanging section along the cutting line.
- The cardboard casing on the back of the sheet is cut off with a knife.
- Plane or spicya sharpened knife cuts off irregularities along the fault line.
Prepared skin fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws to all profiles that the part closes, including guides. To avoid damage to the edges of the sheet, do not screw in the screws too close to the edge.
Self-tapping screws must be sunk into the material a millimeter below its surface. All these irregularities are subsequently puttied.
To simplify the process of setting screws, you should use a special bit with a limiter. Sheets are fastened every 200 mm. Under each joint of two products, a profile must be mounted, to which they are attached.
Putting and painting
Gypsum putty is prepared as follows:
- Water is poured into a clean container (based on 1 liter of liquid per 1.5 kg of mixture).
- Gypsum mixture is poured into a container with water in a thin stream, evenly distributing it over the entire surface.
- The mixture swells within three minutes.
- The finished composition is thoroughly mixed with a perforator with the appropriate nozzle.
- After a three-minute exposure, it is ready to be applied to the surface to be treated.
Since the composition sets in 30-40 minutes, it is prepared in portions of no more than 5 kg.
First putty joints of sheets with fasteners. A finishing mesh is glued onto the applied layer. Then a second layer of putty is applied on top of it.
Reinforcing corners are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws andcovered with putty. If the corner protrudes above the surface of the sheet, its entire surface is puttied until it is completely leveled.
For this work you will need a wide spatula. The mixture is applied to it with a narrower tool.
After the entire prepared composition is produced, the container and the tool are washed until the gypsum is completely removed. Otherwise, unevenness from the hardened material will seriously impede the puttying process.
Perform installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen. Photos of such structures look quite attractive. After the installation is completed, 3 mandatory operations are performed:
- The surface is carefully polished, smoothing out the influxes and grooves. The work is carried out in two stages. First, grinding is done with a mesh No. 80. The required smoothness is achieved after processing with grids No. 120-150.
- Be sure to clean the surface from dust after grinding. If this is not done, the dust will interfere with the painting.
- The sanded and cleaned surface is covered with a primer coat using a roller or brush.
To perform high-quality grinding, it is necessary to illuminate the ceiling with a lamp from a close distance to reveal the remaining irregularities. After the primer has dried with a roller and a brush, the surface is painted in two layers.
After the paint has dried, you can proceed with the installation of fixtures. It is worth emphasizing that for the period of the entire complex of works it is necessary to remove from the premises allhousehold appliances, which include cooling fans: computers and laptops, microwave ovens. If this is not possible, everything should be turned off and covered tightly with plastic wrap. Otherwise, the fans will be tightly clogged with gypsum dust.
Installation of lighting fixtures
Light fixtures are connected to pre-made wiring using terminal blocks.
Recessed luminaires in the design of two-level plasterboard ceilings are fixed in the cut-out holes with spring-loaded grips. The LED strip is previously released from the protective coating glued to its back side. As a rule, a low power tape is used. Therefore, its fastening to drywall can be done without a heat-dissipating aluminum profile.
To install the power supply, a niche is used between the base and the second level. In the case of installation of two-level ceilings with lighting in rooms with high humidity, the power supply must be moved to another room where the humidity does not exceed the norm.
For the purpose of electrical safety, all work on connecting lighting devices is carried out with the voltage removed.
Conclusion
Two-level illuminated plasterboard ceilings, photos of which can be seen in our article, fit perfectly into the interior of any room, add sophistication and emphasize the originality of the design solution.
Installation can be handled by almost anyone who has minimal knowledge and the necessary tools for the job.
In case of doubt, you can always seek help from specialists who will be able to make a suspended two-level plasterboard ceiling in the hall as soon as possible. Photos of these designs clearly demonstrate their originality and beauty.
