Replanting trees in autumn is a rather responsible step. It requires site owners to be knowledgeable about production and timing.
Time to replant trees in autumn
Agrotechnical practice indicates that autumn (especially late) is the best time to transplant all types of hardwoods and conifers. The natural state of dormancy allows all species to comfortably endure interference with the natural process.
The optimal time for replanting trees in autumn is considered - from the beginning of leaf fall until the time when the ambient temperature drops to minus fifteen degrees.
In conditions of persistent cooling (in the regions of the middle zone, this is mid-October to mid-late November), all deciduous (including fruit) trees can be transplanted. Naturally, the best air temperature for such work is from ten to zero degrees. With minus values, additional operations are needed to protect not only the root system itself from freezing, but also to maintain positive soil temperatures around the transplant pit and backfill soil.
The best time for coniferstransplants - early autumn and early spring.
Plants from other nurseries, taken in advance, must be temporarily buried before the required temperature minimum, if they have an open root system. Seedlings with a closed root system will easily stand until the right time.
Influence of age on survival rate
The older the plant, the more difficult it will be for it to adapt to new conditions. A huge mass of roots will be lost when digging, no matter how carefully the work is done. In the spring, when the tree will increase leaf mass, the root system that has not yet been restored will not be able to provide the needs for life-giving moisture, which will manifest itself in depression and, as a result, in subsequent plant diseases.
Optimal for transplanting fruit trees in autumn is their age from one to three to five years. In this case, the ability of the plant to survive and grow the root system is maximum. And the absence of an abundant crown (deciduous mass) allows plants to painlessly both grow additional roots and use them at a minimum for sap flow.
If, if necessary, it is necessary to transfer adult plants (more than five years old) with a well-formed crown to a new place, it is necessary to prepare in advance for this process, since it will require a lot of effort, additional equipment may be required.
Replanting garden trees in autumn: step one - choosing a new location
There are several reasons for reschedulingplants:
- trees have outgrown the space allotted to them - the access of the sun and air masses is limited, which leads to their oppression and provokes the development of many fungal diseases;
- the boundaries of the plot for the garden have changed or, in connection with new landscape solutions, a change in the arrangement of plants is required;
- making a decision to plant a new plant in the place occupied by a tree with the transfer of the old one - redevelopment of the garden;
-
plant has been temporarily planted.
transplanting fruit trees in autumn
The new place should solve the problem of lack of sunlight and easy influx of air masses. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes lack the determination to imagine the dimensions of a mature tree - the work of the imagination seems to be too difficult to cover the possible consequences. But this must be done, otherwise the plant after transplantation in a few years will not be able to develop, it will begin to wither, the yield will be reduced, and it is the task of avoiding this that is at the head of replanting trees in the fall.
For the development of a plant, a nutrient soil is needed, it must be prepared in advance. The estimated amount of soil mixture can be calculated by estimating the volume of the roots (root ball) minus the volume of the humus layer and the soddy soil layer taken out during the preparation of the pit. In other words, the older the plant, the more you will have to prepare (maybe even buy with low-nutrient soils of a new place) a nutritious humus mixture.
If a new location was chosen on an uncultivatedpreviously a piece of land, you should examine the soil in advance. It may be recommended to dig a small (but relatively deep) hole just to look at the composition of the soil.
This technique will help save time during the transplant process itself and even prepare in advance (in clay soil) the necessary drainage.
Step two: preparing the pit at the new location
The size of the hole depends on the spreading of the tree: the larger the crown, the larger the diameter of the hole to be dug. It is better to draw a circle with a shovel on the surface of the soil, drawing a line a little further than the measured crown diameter - this will allow you to dig a hole in advance with a little excess.
The depth of the pit depends on the type of tree being transplanted, it is impossible to foresee the depth in advance. The following recommendations are relevant here: the depth of the pit can be approximately equal to its width. If, when digging a tree, it turns out that the length of the roots is shorter, then putting the selected earth back on the bottom is much easier than urgently removing the soil with a dug tree lying nearby.
The first sod layer should not be placed next to the pit, but a little further away so as not to fill it with the lower layers of soil.
The next fertile layer must be laid out in another place - it will be needed when filling the roots, while the soil structure will be preserved.
Lower, less fertile layers are laid out separately, some of them will be needed to fill the voids.
Up to ten buckets of water should be poured into the dug hole, if the tree is about fiveyears. This will allow not only to wet the soil, but also to understand how well moisture is absorbed and whether it is worth draining.
Step three: preparing the tree
Before transplanting trees in the fall, you need to carefully examine them and remove excess branches.
You need to start with those that grow towards the trunk, they need to be cut anyway (they thicken the crown).
Then, be sure to remove all branches that have grown below the grafting site, if any.
Remove those branches that have grown close to each other - this is crown thinning.
In such a prepared form, the tree is better to adapt to a new place.
Step four: dig up the tree
If the tree is young (up to three years old), it will not be difficult to dig it out: you need to dig it at a distance of at least forty to fifty centimeters from the trunk to a depth of a spade bayonet. It is worth trying to gently tilt it in different directions, if it lends itself to tilt, continue to carefully dig further, taking out the ground and trying not to damage the roots. As soon as the tree begins to tip over under its own weight, the excavation of the earth must be stopped. On a piece of tarpaulin or a thick film laid out in advance, put the tree taken out, trying not to shake the soil from the roots. Carefully wrap the root system with the same film (tarpaulin), tie it above the root collar. In this form, you can transfer it to the future landing site.
When transplanting older trees in the fall, a different trip is required. It consists in the preliminary preparation of a deep trench fordistance from sixty cm to a meter from a tree trunk to a depth of three bayonets of a shovel. Digging in a circle, you need to carefully monitor the lateral roots that come across, they must be carefully cut with a knife and treated with garden pitch. Having removed all the earth from the trench and cut off the long roots, they begin to bring long poles (boards) under the tree. Then they carefully lift it out of the ground, lay it on its side on the prepared tarp, wrap the root ball in it, bandage it and transport it to a new place (preferably not dragged).
In both cases, in order not to damage the root system, the ground around the tree must be spilled if it has not rained for more than three days. The amount of water depends on the age of the tree and the condition of the soil (up to ten buckets).
Step five: landing in the prepared hole
Before planting, it is advisable to orient the tree along the edges of the world as it grew earlier.
After making sure that the dug hole is a little deeper and wider than the root ball, you can carefully lower the tree into the hole, filling it with the prepared soil mixture: first, the lower layer mixed with humus, then the upper fertile one with humus, gradually watering the thrown soil. This technique will fill the earth voids immediately during the transplantation of fruit trees in the fall.
It is advisable to put a pre-prepared layer of turf on top of the humus layers - this will not allow the lower layers of soil to be eroded.
Some trees need support: driving stakes intoground (preferably from three sides), you need to connect them through the tree with rope loops in the form of a figure eight. It is advisable to leave the stakes until the middle of next spring.
Caring for transplanted trees
The next year after the transfer to a new permanent residence, you need to more carefully monitor the condition of the tree. Care consists in constant weeding, tracking codling moths on the crown, processing from rot. It is advisable to remove the flower stalks of the first year after transplantation to strengthen the tree.
