Perhaps no one will be surprised by the assertion that almost any job seems difficult exactly until you start doing it. Subsequently, looking back, it remains only to laugh at their own experiences. A prime example is electrical work around the house. So, if it is necessary to carry out the installation of a single-key switch, many resort to the services of specialized firms and single craftsmen who request payment in the amount of 250 rubles. and higher. In fact, the task is quite simple and can be easily solved on your own.
Types and principle of operation
Any switch consists of a metal base, which includes the mechanism itself, hiding its decorative overlay and keys.
Depending on the number of switched circuits, one-, two- and three-key solutions are distinguished. The installation of a single-key switch is performed in a template, so it is enoughread about it or once watch the work of a specialist. Depending on the method of installation and the degree of protection of the housing, there are internal and external switches. The first ones involve placement inside the wall, in a special box, while the second ones - directly on the surface of some kind of base. For example, the installation of a single-gang outdoor switch is appropriate where there are no special requirements for appearance or it is not possible to install an inner box.
Electrical circuit implementations are usually completely identical. At the heart of these devices is a metal rocker plate capable of connecting two copper contacts with a kind of bridge, forming an electrical circuit. When on, the switch allows current to flow through it, allowing the connected appliance to operate.
Accordingly, in the off state, the internal resistance of the air gap between the contact and the plate is such that the circuit is broken. The plastic key just controls the position of the elements of the mechanism. There are modifications in which a copper “tongue” and a system of spring-loaded rods are used instead of a plate, but the principle of operation is unchanged.
The exception is electronic modifications, in which the process of current flow is controlled by a simple circuit (reaction to light, sound, smooth adjustment).
Tools and installation specifics
Work begins with determining the location of the future installation and preparing materials with tools. You will definitely need: a voltage indicator / phase indicator and a tester to check the continuity of the circuit;insulating tape; several small screwdrivers of different types; a set of fasteners for installation; wire.
And this is only the most necessary - a complete list can be formed immediately before installation. It is desirable to use copper wire. Terminal adapters are also acceptable. There should be a small amount of wire inside the junction box, behind the switch.
External installation
Let's consider how the installation of a single-gang outdoor switch is carried out. The instruction is often supplied with the product in a small brochure, or a hint sticker is glued to the inside of the case. Although most often it is not needed, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with its contents.
Connection to the mains is carried out with the removal of voltage (automatic devices are turned off). This is a mandatory condition, which should not be neglected.
If the wiring is not hidden in the wall, then by inspection it is necessary to decide from which point it will supply electricity to the switch. Otherwise, you must first localize the place of connection by studying the diagram, or by other means finding the place where the line passes. Further, its two wires (a “normal” 220 V network is considered) are cut, their ends on both sides are stripped of insulation to a distance of about 10 mm and parted to the sides. After that, voltage is applied to the line. Using the “Contact” pointer (a proven indicator screwdriver is also suitable), the phase wire is determined, and the circuit is de-energized again. At the site of the incisiona closing passage box is mounted, two wires are inserted into it from three sides: the beginning and continuation of the line, as well as an additional branch to the switch. By the way, it is at this stage that the length of the required additional section is determined. You can not use the box, but get by with insulated twists, although this is a completely budget option.
On a dielectric base (brick), the device can be mounted directly. In all other cases, it is necessary to cut out the base from a non-conductive material and install the switch on the base through it. The alternative is to purchase a fully enclosed model.
Correct location (orientation)
Many sources explaining how to connect a single-gang switch completely overlook the need to check the operation, as a result of which the switching occurs "vice versa": the bottom position of the key corresponds to the on state, and the top position to the off state. Although this does not affect the operation of the device, it can later have the most unfortunate consequences, for example, when replacing a failed lamp. With the “Contact” pointer, a dial tone or a multimeter operating in the resistance measurement mode, it is checked at what position of the switch mechanism the circuit passes current. This corresponds to pressing the up key, which must be taken into account during installation.
In other words, the top and bottom terminals are detected.
When installing a single-gang switch with your own hands, you should not trust without verificationdesignations applied to manufacturers (for phase and zero), since the price for their mistakes is human life.
Line connection
The wire through which the phase comes is increased and brought to the top contact. The second one is taken away from the lower one and laid to the lamp or any other load of permissible power. Although we use the term "wire" here, it must be understood that this may not be a single branch, but a cable core. Most often, this is how it is done.
Leaving from the load joins the zero branch of the main circuit anywhere. Nevertheless, even such a simple action as mounting a single-key switch must be carried out in compliance with certain requirements, one of which states that the returning branch must be connected to the line in the same place where the outgoing phase was taken from.
This makes repairs easy if needed. And if with external wiring it is still possible to trace the line by inspection, then if it is hidden in the wall, the search for a “wandering” wire is very difficult.
Laying a line
Cable routes can be fixed on the wall with clips, stacked in special boxes or hidden in a corrugated pipe, which gives the circuit with a switch a neat and finished look, while protecting the elements from accidental damage. The only thing to pay attention to is the material of the corrugated pipe.
It can be for both external and internal installation.
Mounting the internal switch. Generalinfo
In any case, the general scheme is as follows: "phase wire of the main line - branch to the switch - wire to the load - wire return to the neutral core." Nothing complicated. The installation of a single-key switch intended for indoor installation is almost the same as the option with external placement.
The only difference is that first a cylinder is drilled / cut out / knocked out, the diameter of which corresponds to the dimensions of a special plastic mounting box. Depending on the material of the wall, it is fixed there in one way or another, and the switch itself is already inserted into it. Its fastening is done by tightening the provided two screws, which either separate the special stops, or simply screw the metal frame to the grooves of the box (gypsum board option).
The cable entry for the internal switch is usually concealed. In the case of a concrete or brick wall, a strobe (furrow) is made and wires are laid from the main line. If the walls are “sheathed” with something, then the cable is pulled behind the sheets. That is, only the switch itself (its key) should be visible, and everything else should be hidden. Let's take a closer look.
Brick and concrete
A place is selected for the future switch. According to the PUE, the distance to gas pipes and doorways must be at least 0.5 m. The height is selected individually. Previously, it was believed that the installation of switches should be carried out at the level of the outstretched arm of an adult of average height. Now it is recommended notexceed 1 m (except for children's institutions). A circle is drilled with a special crown, and the resulting cylinder is knocked out. To it, from the place of connection to the line, a groove with a depth of at least 10 mm is “stretched”.
The easiest way to do it is with a special wall chaser, two cutting edges of which simultaneously create parallel grooves. Although, in the absence of a special tool, it is quite possible to get by with the usual chisel and hammer.
You can fix the box in a brick base with cement. First, it is carefully fixed with alabaster or any other similar compound. A cable is connected to it along the strobe and held there in the same way. After hardening, they proceed to install the switch itself. First, the key is removed from it and oriented according to the “on / off” positions (discussed earlier). The wires are stripped and connected to the contacts. It is possible to start completely covering them in the wall only after checking the operability of the entire chain. By the way, the installation of the Werkel single-gang switch, as well as the products of some other manufacturers, is simplified, since self-clamping solutions are used in their design instead of fixing the wire bolts.
Depending on design features, there may be a thin elastic band on the inner retaining tabs. It is not required to remove it, because thanks to it, the tongues are pressed against the “body”, making it easy to bring it into the mounting box. The metal plate that forms the basis of the switch should fit as closely as possible to the wall, sohow even insignificant 1-3 mm of the gap during the final assembly “poured out” into a rather noticeable curvature. So, an improper installation of a Schneider single-gang switch, which belongs to a group of very high-quality products, can negate all its advantages. And it won't matter how long the plastic stays looking.
Drywall and similar materials
With walls sheathed with something, the task is simplified several times. Perhaps its implementation becomes no more difficult than in the case of mounting an external switch.
A circle is cut in the sheet with a crown and a box is set in it.
Its design is such that it eliminates the need for retaining solutions, although there are screws for additional fixation. From the junction box (usually under the ceiling), a cable is pulled behind the sheet to the installation site of the switch, and from it to the load. Installation is in progress (search for a phase wire, orientation, connection to the terminals and assembly of the housing). The only thing you should pay attention to when installing a Viko single-gang switch and similar manufacturers: it is recommended that the design plate be additionally screwed to the box with screws. Such modifications of them are offered by stores in large quantities.
