Do-it-yourself extension to the house

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Do-it-yourself extension to the house
Do-it-yourself extension to the house

Video: Do-it-yourself extension to the house

Video: Do-it-yourself extension to the house
Video: Удлинитель своими руками за 5 минут Do-it-yourself extension cord in 5 minutes 2024, March
Anonim

People living in a private house, after a while, it becomes crowded to live within their four walls, so there is a need to build an additional extension. This article is devoted to the features of building an extension to the house with your own hands.

The extension can serve as a terrace, veranda, hallway, additional or utility room, hide wall defects or protect one of the sides of the house from the wind.

You can design a drawing of a structure yourself or use ready-made solutions by contacting the building design department. It should be noted that all the nuances related to safety and reliability are taken into account in ready-made solutions.

Most often, an extension is erected from the side of the front door. For a small family, an extension of 12 square meters is suitable. m.

The extension to the house must be legal, that is, before starting construction, it is necessary to write an application to the BTI about the desire to make changes to the technical documentation for the house. Otherwise, the extension will be considered illegal, all further actions to legalize itwill go through the court.

After the paperwork is settled and the extension project is selected, the long-awaited construction can begin.

There are two main types of materials used for the extension:

  • tree (frame-panel outbuildings, plank and log structures);
  • brick (red, white, aerated concrete and cinder block can also be used).

Do-it-yourself extension to the house must be built from the material from which the main house is built. The ideal case is when the extension is in complete harmony with the building and with the infrastructure of the site.

When creating an extension with your own hands, a preliminary calculation of prices for work, materials, and also pretends to be the expected construction time. The marking of the site is carried out in the selected and agreed place. The fertile layer of soil can be carefully removed and evenly distributed to the beds.

Foundation for extension

Let's consider such an important issue as the foundation for an extension, because the stability of the entire structure will depend on the quality of the foundation. You can't skimp on the foundation.

Depending on which extension is chosen - wooden (light) or brick (heavy) - the type of foundation is selected.

Let's consider the foundations that are recommended to be built on stable soil without groundwater.

If the extension is light, then it is most rational to choose a columnar foundation.

Column Foundation
Column Foundation

If the extension is heavy, then a tape is a good optionfoundation.

Strip foundation
Strip foundation

Let's consider both foundation construction technologies in more detail.

When creating a columnar foundation, holes are dug in the ground at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. The depth of the pits is 50-70 cm. When the bottom of the pits is rammed, a 15-cm layer of sand and a 15-cm layer of crushed stone are poured there. Next, a 5 cm thick mortar screed is created on the rubble. This screed can be further reinforced with reinforcement. When the mortar dries, they begin to build red brick masonry.

When creating a strip foundation, a trench is dug in the ground along the perimeter of the future extension. The depth, layers of sand and gravel are exactly the same as when creating a columnar foundation. The width of the trench is 20-30% wider than the walls of the future extension. A wooden formwork is erected along the edges of the trench. A rebar frame is created inside the trench.

If we are dealing with a site where groundwater is relatively shallow (or generally on quicksand), a pile foundation will do. For a light extension, we choose steel screw piles, for a heavy extension, reinforced concrete driven piles.

Building walls for an extension

One of the important stages of the started construction is the erection of walls for the extension. If brick is selected as the main material, then the construction steps will be as follows:

  • The surface of the foundation of the extension is covered with a layer of waterproofing.
  • The very first brick is installed on the grillage of the extension, at the junction with the main house. For waterproofing withtrowel evenly applied a layer of mortar. A layer of mortar is also applied to one of the pokes of the brick. The brick is taken with two hands and installed on the grillage. The poke of the brick with mortar should be adjacent to the wall. The brick must be aligned vertically and horizontally. To do this, use the building level. You can trim a brick both with your hands and by tapping on it with a hammer.
  • The second brick is installed on the grillage corner closest to the first brick. After both bricks are perfectly aligned, a thread is pulled between them, along the outer spoon edge. This thread is needed in order to control the alignment of the created brick row.
  • The first row is laid out. The thickness of the mortar layer between the bricks should be approximately 1 cm. The excess mortar that appears when the brick is pressed is removed with a trowel and sent to the mixing container.
  • Subsequent brick rows are laid out in a checkerboard pattern.

Walls are built evenly. In one day, it is recommended to lay out 8-10 rows of bricks, and then give the mortar time to harden.

If wood is chosen as the material, then the walls for the extension can be erected using two methods: frame-panel and crown.

Frame-panel extension
Frame-panel extension

The frame-shield method consists in forming the skeleton of the future extension and hanging special shields on this skeleton. The material from which the frame is created is timber or boards. The creation of the frame begins with the installation of cornerracks that are installed in the form of a right triangle. The material is fastened together with nails, self-tapping screws, steel corners, staples.

When creating frame walls, you need to prepare boards of the right size in advance. To do this, a cutting table-workbench with a circular saw is mounted near the extension. The workbench will carry out all trimming of the material.

Often the boards brought from the sawmill have insufficiently even ends. Such ends must be trimmed (aligned).

Crown of timber
Crown of timber

The crown method consists in the formation of a quadrangular "well", which is formed using a horizontally located beam, boards or logs. The required height from floor to ceiling is given by the number of crowns created. This method of construction can be implemented, as before, without resorting to the use of modern fasteners, that is, to build a structure without a single nail.

Roof for extension

There are several types of roofs in total: single-pitched, double-pitched, four-pitched, broken (complex).

In practice, a shed or gable roof is most often used for an extension.

Shed roof is easier to implement, but its installation does not imply the arrangement of a full-fledged attic or attic. The angle of inclination of such a roof is from 10 to 30 degrees. Shed roof mounted as follows:

  • Two bearing beams are installed on two opposite walls, and one beam must be higher than the other.
  • The beams are mountedrafters. For reliable fixation, special cuts are created at the ends of the rafters. With the help of cuts, a hitch with beams occurs. Additionally, the entire structure is fastened with corners, self-tapping screws and nails. The distance between the rafters should be 50-70 cm.
  • A layer of waterproofing is applied on top of the rafters, which is fixed with a crate.
  • Roofing is applied to the crate, which can be slate, galvanized iron, tiles. After the installation of the roofing, work on the outside of the roof is completed.

Work from the inside of the roof is connected with the insulation of the extension. For this, a lower crate is created, to which thermal insulation is attached. A layer of vapor barrier is applied to the thermal insulation, then the finishing sheathing of the extension ceiling is mounted.

A gable roof, unlike a shed roof, has a ridge in the middle of the entire structure, and the other two beams are located on the same level. Rafters extend from the ridge to the left and right. The skate is fixed with the help of racks, crossbars, struts and rafters.

The subsequent installation of layers of insulation, vapor barrier, etc. is similar to the installation of a shed roof.

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