Most inexperienced needlewomen ask the question: “How to process the edge of the fabric without using an overlock and is the overlock stitch on a typewriter suitable for this?” If you need not only beautiful, but also high-quality overcasting, then you cannot do without an additional device, and if you are just learning to work with fabric and training on old shreds, then only one machine will do for a start.
The main difference between a machine and an overlocker is that the first one only imitates a line, and the second one makes a seam with high quality. This is easy to see if you compare two seam patterns: machine and overlock.
When choosing an overlock, you need to fully explore the functionality of the chosen model and familiarize yourself with modern seam processing technologies.
Features of rolled seam
In the English transcription rolled, the usual role-playing seams (the photo is in the article), mean "twisted, folded".
If you pay attention to the lines themselves and the technology of weaving threads, then this designation becomes quite clear. Rolled seam on an overlocker - what is it? A line that is thin with a minimum stitch frequency and is dense is called a rolled stitch. Application of suchThe seam appeared out of necessity, it is needed for those types of fabrics where hemming the edges of products is inappropriate due to the density of the material or other aspects that cause inconvenience during sewing.
Each of the specialized machines - overlockers - has a special tongue at the level of the needle plate, which occupies an intermediate position during sewing: between the fabric and the thread of the upper looper. This technological feature of the design allows you to avoid twisting the edges of the product parts, regulates the same width of the seam, and provides a smooth stitch. If there is a need to overcast the product, remove this tongue, and the rolled seam on the overlock will turn out. In this case, the width of the seam will be minimal, and the edge of the product will be twisted inside the stitched seam.
There are a number of subspecies of overcasting, which is formed depending on the number of threads involved and the degree of their tightness.
Types of rolled seams
There are several types of role stitches, which are divided by the number of threads used during sewing:
- double thread;
- three-thread;
- four-thread;
- five-line.
Let's analyze all of the above types of role-playing seams in more detail.
Two-thread stitch
Modern overlock models for the most part perform processing using two threads. A double-thread rolled seam can also be made on a typewriter if it is equipped with a special converter that looks like a metal staple worn over the upper looper. When a stitch is formed, the needle and lower thread are used in the work.looper. The function of the top thread is to transfer the bobbin thread to the needle, which contributes to the formation of the correct stitch.
The main advantage of this type of seam is less volume compared to others.
Use area - processing of thin and delicate fabrics.
Three-thread stitch
This type of seam is considered the most elementary. If you do not plan to work in the clothing industry in the future, you may well limit yourself to using a three-thread rolled seam for processing products. To perform it, you will need a needle and a pair of loopers - levers with special holes into which the threads are threaded. With the help of such a device, the thread is fed over the fabric.
In fact, if you sew for yourself, it is not necessary to buy an overlocker. Today you can purchase several sets of paws, including an overlock one, and sew for your own pleasure the same beautiful things as from the factory. Sometimes hand-sewn is better than the goods from the store, and if you are a master of your craft and know how to cut, then it is much cheaper.
Using a three-thread seam, sections are processed in products made from different types of fabrics.
Four-thread stitch
An improved analogue of a three-strand seam - a four-thread overlock. When processing products according to this principle, needles (2) and lower loopers are involved in the process of work. Outwardly, three- and four-thread seams are similar, the only difference is the additional line that is added to the second one.
Feature - subtlety and strength at the same time. Therefore, a rolled hem, consisting of four threads, is best suited for joining parts of products and at the same time overcasting them.
Five stitch stitch
The five-line stitch is called the classic overlock stitch. Most often it is used to process denim pants, therefore, turning such a product outward, you can familiarize yourself with the principle of processing this type of seam in detail.
Five-thread rolled-on stitch combines three- and two-thread seams at the same time, between which there is a "chain" of overcasting at a selected distance.
Sewing is done with two needles and three loopers, one of which is a chain stitch lever.
With the help of such stitches, shedding types of fabrics are most often processed.
The main feature is the simultaneous performance of two functions: turning and overcasting the edges of matter.
The latest overlock models on the market can perform operations with ten threads at the same time. In this way, products are finished with decorative seams. Intertwined threads form various patterns, shapes and ornaments that add zest to products.
Less common stitch patterns
Separate models of sewing machines can perform the function of both overlock and cover system at the same time. Machines of this type are called "coverlock".
Rolled seam on overlock(photo) with the cover stitch function is performed at the level of a special cover stitch mechanism.
You can sew in this way by equipping the machine with a special chain stitch looper. Models equipped with such a lever are an order of magnitude more expensive than usual ones, but they add functionality to machines due to not only the seams described above, but also the following types of stitches.
Chainstitch Single Straight Stitches
Such stitches are used for stitching parts or sewing products made from soft, elastic fabrics. The combination uses two threads: the needle thread and the thread fed by the chainstitch looper.
The main advantage of lines of this kind is elasticity. If necessary, the seam can be easily unraveled without damaging the fabric.
Two- or three-line flat stitch seams
The type of stitch and the number of threads involved is regulated by the number of needles installed in the carpet. On the front side you get a smooth and light flat stitch, and on the wrong side you get a high-quality overcasting.
Such a rolled seam on an overlock (photo below) is most often used to process the bottom of products made from fabrics with the addition of elastin.
The sleeves of T-shirts and T-shirts made of thin knitted fabrics use flat rolled seams, which can be adjusted by adjusting the level of thread tension on the overlock.
Using all three needles, you can finishwide cover stitch (when sewing with outer needles).
When equipping the overlock with an additional thread guide (upper), it becomes possible to process parts with a double-sided cover stitch. The principle of operation of such a machine is to create an interesting decorative pattern on the front side instead of straight parallel lines. Most of this type of equipment performs from five types of double-sided cover stitches, but the cost of such machines corresponds to the declared functionality and not everyone can afford such a luxury.
Thread tension levels when working with overlock
You have already familiarized yourself with all types of operations performed on the machine, due to the number of threads involved during the stitching. The degree of tension in this process is far from the last value. By adjusting the degree of thread tension, you can get different stitches in appearance and quality. So, by selecting a certain thread pressure mode, you can get lines of the following types:
- Standard flatlock rolled stitch when using a two or three thread stitch, with a high lower looper thread tension and less needle thread tension. Stitching a fabric folded in two layers with such a seam, you can easily unfold them, noticing a flat line seam on the spread. The rolled-on stitch flatlock is conventionally referred to as a flatlock, although its effect is more like a cover stitch, giving the overcasting a decorative significance.
- Two- or three-thread flatlock stitch.
- Narrow and wide flatlock overlock seams.
Mechanisms in overlock
After a detailed description of the types of seams and features of working with tensioners, you can begin to get acquainted with the special mechanisms that the machine is equipped with to increase its functionality.
Differential feeder
Thanks to this device, the fabric is protected from deformation during sewing. The conveyor consists of combs, of which there are two in the device: one in front of the needle, the second behind it. They, being in motion, smoothly move the fabric without exposing it to mechanical damage.
The differential feed is also used to create various decorative effects on fabrics, such as ruffles or waves.
Thread tensioners
One of the most difficult steps in operating a sewing machine is adjusting the thread tension and threading the buttonholes. Using such a mechanism, you still have to delve into the essence of the action and adjust the role seam. The modern version of the overlock is already equipped with a special looper threading system, and earlier this troublesome process had to be de alt with manually, dealing with thread guidance patterns and the threading sequence.
The degree of thread tension is adjusted using a special lever or wheel. In expensive new generation overlock models, a system for automatically adjusting the thread tension is installed, depending on the seam or stitch used in the work, but at the same time, the function of manually adjusting the mechanism is retained.
In budget models, regulatorsstresses (wheels) are on the plane or on one of the axes. It is believed that evenly distributed tension between all the threads involved in the sewing process when working at high speeds is achieved when the levers are located on the same axis.
Additional functionality
The useful overlock functions described above do not end there. In addition to the main ones, the device can be equipped with additional devices to expand the functionality, for example, paws, legs designed for trimming threads, working with decorative elements. You can purchase a sleeve platform for high-quality tailoring of product details. As you can see, the rolled seam, the photo and features of which we studied, is not the only thing that can be done with this machine.
Having a certain amount of knowledge about overlockers, as well as having decided on the direction in sewing, you can safely go to monitor market offers. By analyzing the prices, functionality and quality of machines, you can choose exactly the model of the mechanism that you need.
