Until recently, many gardeners believed that growing roses in Siberia is an empty occupation that requires a lot of knowledge and trouble. However, in recent years, the planting of roses has become widespread, gardeners-experimenters have seen from personal experience that some varieties tolerate Siberian winters very well.
Also, a lot of information appeared on growing these beauties in the middle lane, and grown roses in Siberia ripen even better than in warmer regions. True, there are years when the summer is rainy, and the second wave of flowering occurs during the preparation of the bushes for wintering, for this all the buds must be cut. This need is due to the fact that the seedlings can gain strength, the root system is strengthened, and the frosts do not affect the plants. In general, saving rose bushes with winter shelter is half the battle. Equally important is the observance of deadlines when opening roses. Indeed, under shelter, delicate flowers can rot, rot, get sick with fungal diseases.
To save roses in winter from freezing, their root system is piled up or sprinkled with humus, a frame of wooden slats is made around the bushes and spruce branches or covering material is attached. In winter, snow heaps protect bushes well from frost, but in spring, when it is still impossible to open roses, they can deteriorate under snowdrifts, it is necessary to make ventilation for air flow to shelters, because it is at this time that the buds begin to wake up. This must be done on sunny days, when the air temperature is positive, the snow is slightly raked, but the shelter should not be removed. Depending on the weather (spring can be long), from mid-March to mid-April is the best time to open roses. To do this, the snow is completely thrown back, the covering material can be removed during the daytime, and in the evening, if severe frosts are expected, be sure to return it to the bushes.
Plants cope with slight sub-zero temperatures, and at a mark below minus 8 -10 degrees they can freeze. In early April, when it is already necessary to tear off the roses, the humus that is poured around the flowers must be removed so that the root system does not grow out. It is necessary to fertilize with mineral fertilizers or infusion of mullein. After removing the shelter, the branches must be shortened, despite the fact that they have been cut since autumn. Blackened shoots must be cut completely to the place where the branch is green, and if they are black to the ground, then they must be cut completely. At the same time, it may seem that the bush has died, but notshould hurry to uproot it. To save the plant, it is necessary to dilute the agent for stimulating root formation ("Epin", "Zircon", "Kornevin" or others) in the proportions indicated on the package. At least one bucket of the resulting solution must be poured onto a bush and not touched for at least a month. The root system will begin to produce weak sprouts at first, and then with the help of top dressing they will get stronger, but there may not be violent flowering. Now, the main thing is to prepare the bush for the winter, so that next year it will please with the magnificence of its flowers. In general, any experience comes with practice, and if you have never grown roses, first get the most unpretentious variety, consult the seller, find out the features of its cultivation, ask when to open roses, and in the future you will give these recommendations to others from your own experience. beginners.
