Dahurian rhododendron can be found in Primorsky Krai, Eastern Siberia and Northern Mongolia, as well as in such eastern countries as China and Korea. The plant prefers coniferous forests and rocks. This is a fairly large shrub that can reach four meters in height. It branches strongly, and its thick shoots are directed upwards. The leaves are leathery, smooth on top and scaly on the reverse side. In young plants, they are light green in color, but over time they begin to darken. Flowering passes before the leaves appear and lasts only three weeks.
Description
Before talking about the features of growing Daurian rhododendron, the description of the species should also be considered.
Rhododendrons are shrubby plants. Among them there are annual, biennial and perennial representatives, which differ in the shape and shade of leaves, flowers and even shoots. In general, this representative of the Heather family has gained its popularity around the world thanks to not only decorative leaves. One of the main advantages of the plant is beautiful flowers,which can be dyed in a variety of shades. Flowers may vary in shape depending on the species. Some of them even have a certain fragrance.
After flowering on the rhododendron, fruits are formed that look like a five-leaf box, seeds no more than two millimeters in size are stored in it. As for the root system, despite the rather impressive size of the bush, it is considered compact. It is very close to the surface of the earth, which greatly simplifies the process of transplanting not only for the gardener, but also for the shrub itself.
Dahurian rhododendron is listed in the Red Book as a rare and unique species in need of protection.
When and where to plant
Given our climate, only varieties that easily endure winter can be selected for planting. Daurian rhododendron is a winter-hardy species and can grow in Russian gardens. The most suitable time for planting seedlings is the period from April to May and from September to November. Although you can transplant a plant or plant young shrubs at any time while the growing season lasts. The transplant ban is set only during flowering and the next few weeks after its end.
As for the landing site, it should be a shady area, preferably on the north side of the house or other building. The soil should be acidic, rich in humus and fairly well drained. As already mentioned, this plant chooses coniferous forests, which is why it can be located next doorpine, larch or oak. Do not plant rhododendron next to those plants in which the root system has the same horizontally oriented (surface) arrangement. Between them there will be a struggle for nutrients, and the flowering shrub will suffer greatly. If you are sure that such neighbors cannot be avoided, then another task is set before you - to protect the roots of the rhododendron. To do this, slate or other artificial obstacle is dug between the plants.
Disembarkation Technology
The gardener must prepare in advance a planting hole 40 centimeters deep and 60 in diameter. A specially prepared mixture is placed inside, which includes:
- High peat - 8 buckets.
- Loam - 3, 5 buckets (in its absence it is easily replaced with two buckets of ordinary clay).
At the bottom of the pit, the mixture should be well tamped and a recess should be made that would match the size of the earthen coma where the roots are located. Before immersion in the ground, the Dahurian rhododendron seedling must be lowered into the water and kept there until air bubbles stop rising from the water. After that, you can safely lower the roots into the hole, then you need to fill them well with the substrate and tamp so that there are no voids left.
The surface of the plot and the root collar should be on the same level. After planting, you need to immediately water the plant well. Calculate the liquid so that the soil is exactly twenty centimeters wet. When the water is completely absorbedneed to mulch. To do this, you can use moss, peat, oak leaves or needles, wood chips.
Pay attention to the number of flower buds. If there are too many of them, then a certain amount is better to remove. This will help in better rooting. If the rhododendron is located in an open area without neighbors, then it is better to put a strong support next to the young seedling. And after successful rooting, you can immediately remove it.
Growing
One of the most spectacular garden shrubs - rhododendron. Planting and caring for it will not cause difficulties even for a novice gardener, but the result of growing can exceed all expectations.
Caring for a plant consists of the classic scheme of watering, pruning, weeding, fertilizing. The only rule that a novice gardener should remember is that the soil around the plant must be loosened very carefully and not deep. This is due to the fact that the roots are located too close to the surface of the earth, which means that they can be accidentally damaged during loosening. In this regard, weeds are also recommended to be removed only by hand, without the use of garden tools.
Irrigation
During the formation of buds and flowering, the rhododendron needs moisture, and not only soil, but also atmospheric. Not only the flowering of this year, but also the laying of buds for the next one depends on the correct watering. Soft water should be used for irrigation. It is better if you can collect rainwater, but in case of its absence, put the liquid to settle in advance. If you don't do thisif you had time, then at least a day before the proposed watering, add several full handfuls of high-moor peat to the water. This will not only soften it, but also make it more sour.
Watch the condition of the leaves, this is how you can determine the required frequency of watering. Leaves that lack moisture become dull and lose turgor. As with the first watering, the soil should be soaked at least twenty centimeters deep. The grower needs to feel the boundaries, as excess moisture causes the leaves to curl and wilt. In order not to get confused, try to spray the leaves with the same soft water in any weather.
Cutting
In the case of the rhododendron, planting and caring for it is quite simple. One of the important stages of growing this shrub is pruning. However, it is not necessary to carry out this procedure for the purpose of thinning. Since the nature of this plant is such that it itself forms the correct shape of the crown. You need to remove only those shoots that were frozen in winter, dried up, or broken. With pruning, you can control the height of the bush.
You can cut the shoots only in the spring, before the process of sap flow has begun. If you cut off shoots that are more than two centimeters thick, then the cut point must be treated with garden pitch to prevent infection.
Rhododendron has one feature that not everyone likes. If in one year its flowering and fruiting were plentiful, then next year such beauty cannot be expected. What to do with it? You just need to cut off the old inflorescences so that the bush can direct all its efforts to the formation of buds for the next year.
Feeding
Rhododendrons are in dire need of fertilizer. Even those specimens that were planted this year. As a fertilizer, a liquid top dressing made from cow dung or hornmeal is best suited. The first top dressing should be made in early spring, and the last one should be scheduled for the end of July, when flowering stops and young shoots begin their active growth.
Manure and water are mixed in a ratio of 1:15, and then this mixture is left for a day to infuse. Only after this time it is ready for use. Be sure to water the plant well before fertilizing. Complex mineral preparations are selected in accordance with the type of soil. The working solution is prepared strictly following the instructions on the package.
Diseases and pests
There are a number of pests that are very annoying to rhododendrons, among them:
- snails;
- slugs;
- shields;
- spider mites;
- weevils;
- bugs;
- rhododendron flies;
- mealybugs.
Dahurian rhododendron pests that belong to the mollusk family can be manually removed. But for everyone else, an 8% solution of the TMTD fungicide can declare war. A remedy such as diazinon is very effective against spider mites, weevils and rhododendrons.bedbugs. Remember that when fighting weevils, not only the shrub itself is treated with a special tool, but also the topsoil around it.
The most common diseases of Dahurian rhododendron are rust, cancer, leaf spot and chlorosis. Almost all of them are the result of poor aeration of the root system. Bordeaux liquid is a good tool in the fight against rust and spotting. In the case of chlorosis, when the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, iron chelate is added to the water for irrigation. Cancer is removed only together with the affected shoots, cutting them to a he althy place. For prevention, it is recommended to spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid twice a year: in early spring and autumn.
Reproduction
Reproduction of the Daurian rhododendron can take place in two ways: by seeds or by any known vegetative methods. Reproduction by layering is considered the simplest.
In the spring choose the lower shoot, which is very flexible and preferably quite long. It must be slightly bent above the ground and placed in a prepared hole (at least fifteen centimeters deep). From above, the shoot must be sprinkled with garden soil mixed with peat, and in the ditch itself, pin it with a metal rod so that it cannot rise.
The remaining top must be tied to a peg. Layers need to be moistened simultaneously with the common bush. In this position, he is until next spring or even until autumn. When the layering is already well rooted, you need to separate it from the mother bush and transplantto a permanent place in a pre-prepared hole, as described above.
Generative reproduction
Seeds are planted in pre-prepared containers, where there should be heather or peat land with a small amount of sand. From above, they are only lightly sprinkled with well-washed sand and the container is covered with glass to create a greenhouse effect. Germination takes place in a well-lit room.
Care lies in the fact that, as necessary, you need to moisten the soil (it is better to use a spray bottle for this), ventilate and remove condensation from the glass daily. In a month, the first sprouts should appear. And when two true leaves appear, it is necessary to plant the seedlings in different pots.
In the first year, the seedlings should be in a cool, light greenhouse. And next spring they can be safely planted in training beds. The prepared soil should consist of garden soil and a small amount of sand. The growth of seedlings is extremely slow, and the first flowers can be observed only after six, or maybe even eight years.
After flowering
After flowering and in the autumn, make sure that the soil does not dry out. In dry autumn, abundant watering is carried out. If nature spoils with rain, then this is not worth doing. With the onset of November, it is necessary to insulate the root system with a dense layer of peat.
Inhabitants of the middle lane with the onset of the first frost between the branches of the bush place branches of coniferous plants and cover the bushunder the winter with sacking, pulled together with a rope so that the crown does not fall apart. In the spring, with the onset of a thaw, this shelter is removed. In more southern areas of the country, such shelter is not required.
