Wooden houses usually do not require insulation. After all, a timber or a log by itself is able to protect the interior of a residential building very effectively. But sometimes such houses are sheathed with heat insulators from the inside or outside. There is a need for this procedure, for example, in very cold regions or when the walls of a log or cobbled building are already dilapidated. Floors and ceilings in such a building, of course, require insulation in any case.
The better to insulate a wooden house
As an insulator for the enclosing structures of a log or block residential building, the following are commonly used:
- mineral wool;
- foam or polystyrene.
Since wood is afraid of moisture, hydro- and vapor barriers are also required when sheathing the enclosing structures of such buildings. The frame-base for installing insulation when cladding buildings made of wood is, of course, most often made of timber. At the same time, in most cases, lumber 150x100 or 50x100 mm is used.
Beam for mounting the frame when insulating facades, of course, it is worth buying a quality one. The material should not have too many knots. Also, the beam must be dried well. The moisture content of the material selected for assembling the frame should not exceed 12%.
For the outer cladding of the walls of wooden houses during their insulation, different materials can be used. Of course, lining and blockhouse are considered the most suitable type of exterior decoration for the facades of such buildings. However, these boards are quite expensive. Therefore, most often wooden houses are sheathed on the outside with siding or profiled sheets.
Pros and cons of mineral wool
Walls, ceilings and floors of wooden buildings are sheathed, usually using this particular material. Mineral wool is inexpensive and has simply excellent performance. The advantages of such plates, among other things, include:
- easy to install;
- excellent thermal insulation performance;
- long service life;
- flammability.
Mineral wool is mounted when insulating wooden houses, usually without using any additional fasteners. Plates of this material are simply installed between the bars of a pre-stuffed frame by surprise.
The thermal conductivity of mineral wool, depending on its density, can range from 0.038 to 0.055 W/mK. This indicator is actually very good. Warming of a wooden housemineral wool allows you to create the most pleasant microclimate inside it.
This material, as an insulator for building envelopes, can perform its functions for 25-30 years. This, of course, is a lot. Such material is made from bas alt fiber, capable of withstanding temperatures up to 1114 ° C. And even when this indicator is exceeded, such plates do not light up, but begin to melt. That is, the use of mineral wool when insulating a country house also reduces the risk of fire.
The advantages of mineral wool, therefore, are many. But this material has one drawback. Inside the pie of the walls, slabs of this variety may slide down a little over time. And this, of course, in turn, reduces the effectiveness of the insulation of the building. To choose for the insulation of the walls of a wooden house, therefore, it is worth mineral wool only from trusted manufacturers and of a sufficiently high density.
Also, some disadvantage of such plates is that they are able to absorb moisture. In no case should it be violated the technology of thermal insulation of enclosing structures, including wooden ones, using mineral wool. When installing such material, it is imperative to use high-quality vapor and waterproofing materials.
Pros and cons of Styrofoam
This material for warming a wooden house is used less often than mineral wool. But sometimes log or cobbled buildings are still sheathed with polystyrene foam. The advantages of such plates include:
- resistance toexposed to moisture;
- low thermal conductivity;
- long service life.
Unlike mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is not afraid of water. Protect walls, floors and ceilings from the cold even in the wettest weather, it can most effectively.
The thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is 0.027-0.033 W/mK. That is, this material is able to protect the walls of a wooden house from the cold even better than mineral wool. At the same time, like bas alt slabs, expanded polystyrene can serve as an insulator of enclosing structures from the cold for 25-30 years after installation.
Disadvantages of this material, like mineral wool, of course, also exist. The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene are considered in the first place:
- low breathability;
- some difficulty in installation.
Unlike mineral wool, when installing polystyrene foam, you have to use glue, as well as additional plastic fasteners. In addition, the plates of this variety are fragile and some care must be taken when installing them.
Air, unlike fibrous bas alt slabs, does not pass through expanded polystyrene. Because of this, under a layer of such an insulator, in some cases, a greenhouse effect may even occur. That is why, more often, their owners still choose mineral wool for sheathing wooden houses.
Another serious disadvantage of foam insulation is that theyMice and rats love to chew. Inside such thick, fragile sheets, rodents arrange passages and burrows for themselves. At the same time, all types of foamed insulation are distinguished by a similar disadvantage: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, foam plastic.
The disadvantages of insulators of this variety, in comparison with mineral wool, of course, include a rather high cost. Sheathing the facades of a country building using foam boards is usually quite expensive.
Insulation from the side of the street with mineral wool: the main stages
Most often, the owners of suburban areas carry out the insulation of wooden houses from the outside. The use of this technology allows you to protect the building from the cold as efficiently as possible. In addition, in this case, extra centimeters of the internal space of the building are not “eaten up”.
The technology of warming a wooden house using mineral wool is as follows:
- walls covered with vapor barrier film;
- frame is mounted under the heat insulator;
- the actual sheets of mineral wool are installed;
- mounted waterproofer;
- wall cladding in progress.
Installation of vapor barrier film
When insulating wooden log houses, such material is usually attached directly to the walls. Blocked buildings are covered with a vapor barrier using a slightly different technology. In log walls under the film, in any case, there is a ventilatedfree space (between the crowns). The film adheres very tightly to the paved surface. This disrupts moisture and air exchange in the walls, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
To prevent this from happening, the vapor barrier film on the walls erected from timber is not fixed directly, but using 2.5 cm thick rails. Such elements are stuffed onto facades in 1 m increments, and then, already over them, they vapor barrier.
Assembly of the frame and installation of plates
After the vapor barrier is installed, they begin to actually insulate a private wooden house with mineral wool. First, a frame is stuffed onto the walls of the building. The bars are fixed in a strictly vertical position using ordinary nails. The distance between the frame elements is left equal to the width of the mineral wool boards minus 1-2 cm.
The heat insulator itself is mounted on the walls between the bars by surprise. Usually, insulation using mineral wool is performed in two layers. In this case, an insulating material with a thickness of 5-10 cm is used. The second layer is mounted in such a way that the plates overlap the seams of the first layer. If the walls are supposed to be insulated in one layer, 15 cm thick cotton wool is usually purchased for sheathing.
Installation of waterproofing and outer skin
At the next stage, a moisture-proof film is pulled over the insulation. This material is fastened to the walls with slats, stuffing them over the frame bars. The use of such elements in the future allows you to create an air gap between the outer skin and the film for ventilation. This additionally protects the heat insulator from moisture.
Finish the insulation of a wooden house from the outside with the installation of the actual outer finish itself. At the same time, the car is fastened to nails in a flush or open way, or using kleimers. Siding and profiled sheet are installed using self-tapping screws.
Insulation of a wooden house outside with foam foam
Such slabs are mounted on log walls using approximately the same technology as mineral wool. The only thing is that in this case, a vapor barrier is usually not used. Foamed materials, as already mentioned, are not afraid of moisture. The fastening of the plates between the bars of the crate is carried out on plastic dowels.
Insulation of a wooden house with polystyrene foam or foam plastic, in the event that the walls are built from timber, is carried out in most cases using glue without crates. At the same time, not siding or lining is used as a final finish, but plaster.
Sometimes, for greater reliability, the frame is still used when sheathing cobbled walls with polystyrene foam. In this case, the final finish is also done using usually siding or profiled sheet.
How to properly glue penoplex
Insulation of the facade of a wooden house when using this type of insulator is carried out in compliance with the following rules:
- sheets are installed in such a way that there is no convergence of four corners at one point;
- at least 6 dowels are used to fasten one sheet;
- glue is applied to the sheet dotted, and then distributedspatula over its entire surface.
For gluing, the sheet is placed on the facade in the desired position, firmly pressed to the surface and held in this way for several seconds.
Applying plaster
Insulation of a wooden house with foam plastic involves, as already mentioned, in most cases its subsequent plastering. Finish walls insulated in this way using the following technology:
- knead the plaster mortar and apply it to the slabs in an even layer 1-2 mm thick;
- attach a paint mesh to fresh plaster;
- after the plaster has dried, rub the wall with a grater;
- apply another layer of 3 mm thick plaster mix;
- after a while they pass the wall again with a paint grater;
- priming and painting facades.
Features of the cladding from the side of the room
The main disadvantage of warming wooden houses from the inside is, first of all, that in this case the dew point moves inside the rooms. As a result, condensation begins to form on the surface of the insulation. And this, in turn, leads to a backlog of the heat insulator from the wall and damage to the external decorative finish.
To prevent this from happening, you need to:
- choose only the highest quality vapor barriers for sheathing;
- fasten the material to the walls closely;
- use a heat insulator with a low degree ofvapor permeability.
That is, to insulate walls from the inside, even wooden ones, unlike the sheathing from the outside, it is more expedient to use not mineral wool, but expanded polystyrene. After all, such material practically does not let through the vapors formed in the room.
Of course, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside can also be done using mineral wool. In this case, however, the plates should not only be installed between the frame posts, but also additionally glued. On log walls, fixing cotton wool in this way, of course, will not work. Therefore, in this case, the highest quality vapor barrier should be fixed over the bas alt slabs. The cotton wool itself, when sheathing from the inside, should be used quite dense.
Features of floor insulation in a wooden house
To make it comfortable to live in a cobbled or log country building built in a cold region, its owners should insulate, of course, not only its walls. In this case, the floors should, of course, be isolated in the house. This will make the microclimate in a wooden building as comfortable as possible.
Thermal insulation of floors in a cobbled or log house can be performed in two ways:
- bottom;
- top.
The first technique is usually used when the house is built on a strip concrete foundation. If a wooden building stands on a columnar one, it will be more convenient to insulate its floors from above.
For floor insulation in a wooden housefrom below, in most cases, expanded clay is used. At the same time:
- floor boards are dismantled, marked and taken out of the room;
- the soil is carefully compacted around the support pillars;
- ground is laid with waterproofing material;
- 3 cm thick concrete screed is poured;
- expanded clay backfilling in progress;
- vapor barrier film is laid.
At the final stage, the boards are installed in place. Insulation of the floor in a wooden house from below - the procedure is therefore extremely simple.
From above, floors in residential cobbled or log buildings are most often insulated using expanded polystyrene or mineral wool without dismantling the boards. The insulation technology using such materials looks like this:
- lags are stuffed on the old floor;
- waterproofing strips are laid between the lags;
- Insulation is mounted;
- vapor barrier is pulled on.
At the final stage of the work, boards of a new floor are stuffed over the log.
How to insulate the ceiling
In the vast majority of cases, the ceilings in a wooden house are insulated from the side of the attic. In this case, it is allowed to use both polystyrene foam and expanded clay or mineral wool for insulation.
For insulation on the floor in the attic, logs are pre-mounted. Next spacebetween them is covered with vapor barrier material. Then a heater is mounted between the lags. A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of it. At the final stage, a new finishing floor is stuffed in the attic.
At the stage of building a house, ceiling insulation is usually done using a slightly different technology. In this case:
- floor beams are sheathed with edged processed board from below using nails;
- from above, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards between the beams;
- slabs of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool are mounted;
- waterproofing is being laid;
Sometimes the ceilings in a wooden house are also insulated from below. This technology is usually used when the house is supposed to be finished from the inside with drywall, plywood or clapboard. In this case:
- all cracks in the ceiling are pre-blown with mounting foam;
- frame is mounted for future skin;
- insulation is glued to the ceiling between the frame elements;
- additional fixation of the insulating material with plastic dowels;
- finishing ceiling lining in progress.
Most often in this way the ceilings are thermally insulated using polystyrene foam. But in this case, dense mineral wool slabs can also be used.
How to insulate the roof
Sometimes in country cobbled or log cabinsIn buildings, it is not the ceilings that are directly insulated from the cold, but the roof slopes. In this case, the owners of the house have the opportunity to equip a residential attic or attic. The roofs of suburban wooden buildings can also be insulated both from the inside and outside.
The latest technology is, of course, usually used during the construction phase of a building. In this case, the roof of a wooden house is insulated as follows:
- stretch a vapor barrier film between the rafters from the side of the attic;
- on top of the film, also from the side of the attic, a wire is attached to support the insulation;
- set at a distance between the rafters of mineral wool slabs;
- mount a water insulator on top of the wool with mounting on rails;
- stuff a crate over the slats;
- mount roofing material.
When using polystyrene foam, a slightly different technique is used. In this case, the attic is first sheathed with plywood or, for example, OSB boards. Further, between the rafters from the side of the slope, polystyrene foam is installed with fastening to glue. Then they mount the waterproofing, crate and roofing material.
In already built wooden houses, attics are usually insulated from the inside. In this case, the insulation boards are first mounted between the rafters on top of the waterproofing. Next, a vapor barrier material is pulled using a stapler. After that, the walls of the attic are sheathed with plywood or OSB boards.
