Decoration of the exterior surfaces of the house with siding is not just a way to physically preserve its structure, but also a worthy option for designer decoration. Modern panels make the facade more presentable, stylish and original. It is enough to choose the desired texture or order panels with a unique color. Next, siding is performed in several stages. This is a very responsible task, since the resistance of the facade to precipitation and mechanical stress will depend on it.
Material selection
The facade can be decorated with both metal and plastic (vinyl) siding. It is polyvinyl chloride PVC panels that have gained great popularity, which are distinguished by their modest weight, ease of handling, compactness and aesthetic appearance. Metal siding lamellas, in turn, benefit from durability andmechanical resistance. If it is assumed that high loads will be applied to the surface of the facade, then it is better to give preference to metal. In particular, small loads on the building structure are given by aluminum cladding with siding, the photo of which is presented above. Next, you can proceed to the choice of sizes. A project is created taking into account the configuration of the placement of elements and the calculation of the volume of lamellas. Particular attention is paid to the calculations of vinyl siding. The fact is that temperature changes contribute to the expansion and contraction of the panels, so you need to make an allowance for a margin of about 8-9 mm in width.
Required tools
Quality installation of siding is impossible without the use of special tools. As a rule, this is a locksmith set, supplemented with a square, a tape measure and a building level. For cutting panels, an electric saw should also be prepared. It is advisable to use models with a thin tooth - about 12 by 25 mm. Moreover, the panel itself should be installed in the opposite direction. In the case of plastic, you can also use a mounting knife. It will allow you to cut off large parts and, if necessary, carefully trim the edges. Even in simple schemes, siding cladding requires the introduction of lamellas with small eyelets along the edges. Such elements are installed in the upper parts of the walls or under the window openings. Punches are used to create "ears". Another tool for forming additional holes and grooves is a puncher. With it, for example, you can easily lengthen nail holes to compensate for thermal expansion.
Wall preparation
There are practically no restrictions on the use of siding in terms of compatibility with wall material. Panels can be installed on concrete, stone and wooden bases. Another thing is that in the latter case, preparatory measures are facilitated, since there is no need to arrange a crate. Also, different types of siding for house cladding present their own special requirements for surface preparation. Plastic, for example, cannot be fixed in a rigid way to stone surfaces, even if the frame of the crate is installed. A strong wind will tear it off, so special profiles may be required that widely grip the lamellas from the back. Regardless of the type of siding and wall material, thorough preparation of the base will be required. The smallest surface defects in the form of protruding nails, pits, chips and bumps should be eliminated. Problem areas should be treated with a grinder, and the recesses and holes should be filled with a primer.
Crate device
This is the supporting part in the form of a small frame on which the siding is fixed. The crate is made of timber with a section of about 25x25 mm. It is advisable to use coniferous material - for example, fir, spruce or pine. It is important that the bars do not have cracks and are sufficiently dried. Before installation work, marking is carried out, the beginning of which will be the lower horizontal line. The first row of cladding will begin with it. The main bearing bars are fixed along the edges. Their feature will be the capture of the full length over the areafacade design. The resulting zone can be divided by longitudinal rails, delimiting a common area. The standard siding cladding technology also provides for a heat-insulating lining. Therefore, it is important to calculate the rise of the rails relative to the surface, taking into account the thickness of the future insulator. For example, it can be mats with a thickness of 20-30 mm. Then the lathing of the area limited by the bars is carried out directly - the slats are fastened at intervals of 50-60 cm. As for the method of fixation, it is recommended to use an 8 mm expansion dowel.
Laying heat insulator
This operation can be performed before the final stage of the crate, closing the insulation. The heat insulator itself must be rigid or semi-rigid, as the rolled materials and the soft mat slide down, making the insulating barrier uneven. In terms of the effectiveness of the insulation itself, it is desirable to use mineral wool made of a bas alt base or fiberglass. If there are high requirements for siding in terms of fire safety, then you can also turn to expanded polystyrene - this is a completely non-combustible insulator. Insulation does not require special fastening. It will be covered with battens, but for more reliable and durable operation, the same mineral wool should be additionally protected with a hydro- and vapor barrier film.
Installing siding
The basic cladding kit includes not only panels, but also additional elements - the starting strip, corners, platbands and spotlights. Usually, installation begins with additional accessories, after which they move on to profiles. The corners are set first. During installation, a small distance of about 6-7 mm should be maintained between the cornice and the top of the corner. Then the starting strip is mounted, from which the horizontal cladding of the facade with siding will go along the main area. This is the bottom panel, from which the laying of subsequent lamellas will begin with an indent of up to 12 mm. This is followed by the main part of the work, during which the panels are alternately attached from the bottom up. Fixation points are made at intervals of 40 cm, and at the points of convergence of the lamellas with corner accessories, a gap of 7-12 mm is left. The mechanism for bringing together siding elements in the main area of \u200b\u200bsheathing will depend on the design of a particular product. In most cases, the manufacturer indicates the marks for overlapping one lamella to another.
Finishing panel installation
The last operation in the main part of the facing work is laying the panels at the top point, where their edge rests on the roof. Many inexperienced craftsmen, in order to obtain an ideal convergence, cut off part of the lamella in order to obtain an even joint, but this cannot be done, since the reliability of the fastener is reduced. The element can be adjusted to the optimal angle only in the area of the gables. The finishing touch will be a special finish overlay or the installation of a J-profile. And for the latter, it is necessary to make 6 mm holes. These profiles are required in order for the water to flow freely along the entire line.lining. Do-it-yourself siding is easy to do if you initially adhere to correct calculations based on a correctly drawn up wiring diagram. Vertical installation is used less often, but is performed according to the same principles. The main thing is to maintain the same gaps, taking into account the thermal expansion of the plastic.
Installation of spotlights
This is a part of the additional elements, which is intended for the lower protection of the roof overhang. The soffit in some way continues the inversion of the roof to the wall on the one hand, and forms an angular joint with horizontal lamellas on the other. Fastening is carried out using a chamfer, which is fixed to the overhang. Typical siding cladding assumes that the chamfer will act as a grip and holding link relative to the soffit. That is, first a row of lamellas is installed, and then an oblong chamfer closes it. Rigid fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails.
General tips on how to proceed
Excessively rigid and tight fixing of the panels together should be avoided. There must be a damper space, otherwise the plastic is deformed during the expansion process. The reliability of fastening elements should be controlled through the lock, controlling the position of the lower lamella. The degree of rigidity of fastening wall cladding with siding should also not be excessive. There should be a gap of 1-2 mm between the head of the hardware and the surface of the panel.
Siding care
The advantages of such a cladding include practicality and unpretentiousness in maintenance, but this does not mean that it should be completelyignore its content. At a minimum, periodically wash away dirt from surfaces using a hose with sufficient water pressure, a soft cloth and a brush. If there are problems with the development of fungi and mold, then it will not be superfluous to use facade detergents designed to combat negative biological processes. Special care is required for metal siding. This type of cladding is sensitive to rust and aggressive acid environments. Initially, the lamellas have factory protective coatings, but during operation it is necessary to monitor the appearance of worn areas with exposed metal. These areas should be treated with anti-corrosion paints.
Conclusion
Siding is a modern means of decorating the external surfaces of a house, the performance of which justifies all the difficulties of installation. There are many alternative ways to finish the facade, but only a few of them can come close to the same vinyl panels in terms of their combination of advantages. In addition, facing the house with siding has structural and functional advantages. The correct arrangement of additional fittings with profiles, corners and spotlights will provide a sufficient level of protection for walls and openings from various types of external threats. The user is only required to maintain the condition of these elements, promptly detecting deformations and damage to the siding. If we talk about the shortcomings of this type of cladding, then the main one will be the cost. So, vinyl panels are estimated at 200-250 rubles / m2, and metalwith protective coatings - an average of 500 rubles / m2. These costs exceed the investment in plaster or wood paneling, but the result of such a finish will be more durable.
