Pear is an amazingly tasty and very he althy garden culture that is loved not only by children, but also by adults. Soft and juicy fruits are grown in small summer cottages, in large gardens and even on an industrial scale - for the manufacture of various purees, jams and jams. But wherever cultivation is carried out, pear pruning is a mandatory measure for caring for a tree. An important role of this process is to increase the yield and quality of fruits. In this article, we will tell you how to prune pears correctly, taking into account the different seasons.
General information
There are four main seasons for pruning pears (and other garden trees): spring, autumn, winter and summer. This process is carried out to achieve several goals at once:
- improving the taste and presentation of future fruits;
- regulation of tree growth and fruiting processes;
- improved crown illumination;
- normalize wood fouling;
- removal of dry, broken anddiseased branches, which not only spoil the general appearance of the tree, but also threaten the development of various diseases and pests.
Proper pruning of a pear allows you to grow a tree of the desired height, which will have a powerful trunk that can withstand even the heaviest weight of ripe fruits. Thanks to pruning, the tree begins to bear fruit in a timely manner and retains its productivity for a long time. However, this process has its own nuances, which we will discuss in today's article.
Tree care in spring
In this section we will talk about how to prune pears in the spring. It is produced in the interval between the end of frost and the beginning of the vegetative period, while the air temperature should not be below 5 ° C. Pruning begins with thinning the crown - this will provide the tree with better air and sunlight. Why is the trunk shortened by a length depending on the age of the tree (from a quarter of the entire trunk to 30 centimeters). All places of cuts are processed with drying oil or garden pitch. After pruning is completed, nitrogenous fertilizers should not be applied to the soil.
There are two main ways to cut branches: shortening the length of the branches and cutting on the ring. When using the first method, you will achieve accelerated growth of lateral branches and awakening of the kidneys. When cutting on the ring, the cut is made under the very base of the branch. Moreover, the incision is first made from below, only then the branch is cut from above.
Features of the process in summertime
Summer pear pruning ispinching (pinching) of shoots developing at the top of the tree. They pinch young shoots with their hands, sometimes it is permissible to use a pruner if the shoot has grown too much. Tweezing helps the tree to use the nutrients supplied to the plant with fertilizers sparingly.
When pruning a pear in June, the development of fast-growing shoots is delayed. This is followed by the formation of new shoots that grow too early, and also leads to increased growth of weak branches. That is why tweezing this month is not the best time. It is best to cut the shoots at the end of their growth fading. So you will improve the ripening of shoots and the development of axillary buds.
Pruning pear in autumn
The autumn pruning period does not last long - in the first half of September. This season, early or mid-early varieties of the fruit tree are pruned. Next, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the features of pear pruning in the fall for beginner gardeners:
- Pruning is performed only at positive air temperatures.
- First, you need to remove the branches growing at right angles to the tree, then the vertical shoots.
- Don't prune the tree too much - it will take too much effort to recover from pruning and produce too many vertical shoots.
- If you need to cut a branch that is more than three centimeters thick, first file it from below, and only then finish it from above. This will protect the bark under the branch from unnecessary damage.
- Do not feed the tree after pruning - it will be enoughnutrients from the roots.
Do I need pruning in winter?
Quite a controversial question, the answers to which vary. Some gardeners argue that winter pruning will only weaken the tree - because of the low temperatures, the cut shoots will not have time to recover or even die. Others insist that this process is necessary and should be carried out from November to February. Winter pruning begins with older trees, as their buds awaken a little earlier than young ones. Prepare a sterile instrument so that disease does not begin to develop at the cut sites.
The average air temperature on the day of pear pruning should not be below -15 °C. Cross, dead and diseased branches are removed with a pruner or saw. The next step is to open the middle part of the tree to remove and shorten the largest shoots. But you should not remove several large branches in one pruning, as this will weaken the tree. It is better to divide this process into three or four times. All cuts are immediately processed with garden pitch.
Prolonging the life of an old pear
Illiterate pruning of an old tree can only harm it. But subject to the necessary rules, you will rejuvenate the pear and be able to return fruiting. Sometimes you just need to shorten a tree that is too tall, and at a normal height, only branches are shortened. It is better to cut an old pear at the end of winter or with the advent of spring, that is, until the leaves begin to grow and form.kidneys.
When thinning the crown, begin with the removal of dry and diseased branches that block the tree's access to sunlight. In addition, by removing the infertile branches, you will see the remaining amount of work. The next step is to remove the shoots that grow at an acute angle to the trunk, such branches are not able to support the heavy weight of the crop. He althy shoots are slightly shortened, the sections are covered with garden pitch. Sometimes, after such pruning, an old tree may produce less fruit than expected. But next year the situation may change for the better. Rejuvenation by pruning often saves a tree from felling.
Pruning a young pear
One of the main cuttings of a young tree is done when it is planted. Very often, when planting a seedling, the roots are damaged, so cutting off the shoots will improve its nutrition. Also, the first pruning lays the tree diagram and shortens the conductor (trunk).
In the first autumn after planting a pear, pruning is not carried out - the tree is still too young and weak for such frequent shortening of shoots. On average, the process of pruning an older tree (older than one year) is carried out no more than twice a year. It is especially important to pay attention to the so-called tops, which form after winter. Since they often develop into large branches and overly thicken the crown, they must either be removed or converted into overgrown shoots.
Branch cutting scheme
In the first year after planting, a quarter of the main shoot is cut off from the seedling, which later becomes the trunk. Suchsignificant pruning is done to develop a lush crown. Lateral shoots are pruned, but not too short - to the first bud. One more year after planting, it is necessary to shorten the trunk by 20-30 centimeters, and cut the branches by 7-8 centimeters. To form a regular and beautiful crown, leave the lower shoots a little longer than the subsequent upper shoots, so the tree will have the shape of a pyramid.
The first stage of pear pruning is the removal of dry branches with the onset of spring, the second stage is carried out a couple of weeks after the first and consists in the formation of shoots. The older the tree, the lower the rate of formation of new young shoots. Therefore, pruning of an older tree is carried out no more than once every three years.
Tools
There are several basic tools that are used to trim pears. All of them are essential attributes of even a novice gardener and must be kept clean and sterile.
- Pruner and delimber. The first is used to shorten branches, the diameter of which is not more than two centimeters. Thicker branches are removed with a lopper - it is much more convenient than a pruner due to longer handles.
- Knife. An attribute of more experienced gardeners - pruning with this tool is much more difficult. The main thing in choosing a garden knife is its sharpness and ease of use. Some knives are specially made for small pruning, eliminating the need for a pruner.
- Garden saw. The difference between this tool and the usualis an increased sharpness that allows you to cut live shoots of a thicker diameter.
