It is preferable to plant all berry bushes in late summer - early autumn, and currants are no exception. Its landing is also optimal during this period. If, for some reason, currant planting material was acquired at a later period, then planting will depend on weather conditions. If, according to weather forecasts, early frosts are expected, then it would be more correct to dig in the planting material in a horizontal position until spring and plant it in the spring. If the autumn is warm, then you can plant currants in the first decade of October.
The root system of the currant continues to grow until late autumn. In this case, after planting, the soil under the currant must be mulched. Mulch can be tops from tomatoes, zucchini, weeds, etc. If the planting of currants is postponed until spring, the planting pit should be prepared in the fall.
Before planting, the material must be soaked in water (put in water) for about three hours, so that the root system is saturated with moisture. Planting currants is done obliquely. This applies to a bush with several stems, and to a thin twig. When planting currants, be sure to deepen it on the lower three buds. The aerial part should also be three kidneys,the rest must be cut using a well-sharpened pruner.
Cut off the aerial part so that the currant bush does not age prematurely. In the spring, the leaves will begin to open, and the root system affected by the transplant may not be able to cope with the nutrition of the aerial part if pruning was not done in the fall. With an uncircumcised aerial part, all the nutritive juices rush to the apical bud, and fruitlets (overgrowing branches) do not form on the branch, therefore, the branch becomes bare, the leaves on it will be only at the top. Without pruning the aerial part when planting, the bush will begin to age in the first year.
Slanted planting of currants is necessary in order to quickly form new shoots from those buds that have been buried. If you plant a currant bush vertically, then new shoots can be expected for a long time, while the crop on the planted bush will be small.
If the planting of blackcurrant is done correctly, obliquely, two new branches are formed on each stem the next year. To achieve more branching of young branches, they need to be removed
apical buds. In this case, the two buds closest to the place of pinching will sprout. That is, in the fall, you need to shorten the side branches that have grown over the summer, leaving three buds on each. In this way, a currant bush is formed with many branches on each shoot.
If there is a need to propagate currants, then in the spring you can pin the lower branches to the soil. But the top of the branch must be brought to the surface. To speed up root formation, scratches can be made on the bark of a branch and poured with a solution of a root former (for example, heteroauxin or root). Pour moist soil on top. You can cover the place of pinning with a film. After a certain time, young shoots will appear from the buds in the soil. Throughout the season, you need to monitor the soil moisture in the place where young shoots grow. In the spring of next year, the young shoots will need to be divided and planted in a permanent place.
Proper planting of currants is the key to excellent harvests in the future.
