Due to the high yield of Red Globe grapes, the long shelf life of harvested berries and consumer qualities, this variety has gained popularity around the world. This late-ripening variety was bred in California in the seventies of the XX century. At first, he was appreciated in Asian countries, but in the first half of the nineties, he was also noticed in Europe. Today, the world leaders in the harvest of this grape variety are the USA, Chile and China.
Red Globe grapes: variety description
This grape variety is easily recognizable by its outstanding berries. On average, their diameter is from two and a half to three centimeters, and their weight is up to fifteen grams. With proper care, taking into account all the characteristics of the variety, the size of the berries reaches four centimeters, and the weight exceeds twenty grams.
Color ranges from light to dark pink, sometimes brown. The color of Red Globe grapes depends on the level of light and maturity. Darkening of the grapes is possible with prolonged storage. Otherwise, the berries fully retain their consumer qualities and are stored under normal conditions for up to four months.
Red Globe grapes have a thin, but at the same time strong skin that hardly cracks. The pulp is dense and does not lose juice when cut. The taste is simple, but sometimes there are fruity notes. In a small amount there are large bones.
The sugar content is about fifteen percent, and the acidity varies from 4.5 to 7.5 g/l, depending on the degree of maturity. Excess acid is removed even before the final ripening, which makes it possible to harvest ahead of time.
The clusters are large in size and medium in density. Their average weight is one kilogram. But with sufficient nutrition and abundant watering, it reaches two and a half kilograms. Thanks to all these qualities, reviews of Red Globe grapes are only positive.
This grape variety is classified as table grapes, that is, its main purpose is to be eaten without any processing. Fruiting begins at the age of three. The ripening period is about five months, which is why the variety is considered medium-late. The yield is very high. In the first year of fruiting, about eight bunches are formed on one bush, by the second year their number doubles, and in the third year it can reach thirty.
Summer grape pruning
Vine can develop well without summer pruning, but in this case, the plant will spend extra energy on the growth of new shoots. Consequently, fewer resources will be spent on cluster formation, and the size and quality of the crop may fall short of expectations. The berries will be smaller than they could, and theysugar content - below standard.
Why cropping is needed
For beginners, pruning grapes in the summer can be a challenge, as there is often debate among experienced growers about whether or not to prune in the summer. With the right approach, this procedure will definitely not hurt. On the contrary, it will allow directing the development of the vine in the right direction for the gardener. Summer pruning has the following benefits:
- nutrients and minerals contained in the soil, as well as the required amount of moisture, will only fully reach those branches on which clusters are formed;
- the chances of getting a crop with high palatability increase;
- clusters of larger weight will form, consisting of large berries;
- the vine will become more frost-resistant;
- prevents overgrowth, making the plant disease resistant and easier to control pests.
With annual pruning, you need to save about a third of young shoots, choosing the strongest ones. So you can significantly improve the vine. Constant thinning facilitates air circulation and allows full sunlight to reach the surface of the leaves. Young plants need pruning in the first four years for proper bush formation.
Terms for pruning and methods of forming a bush
Pinching (cutting young shoots and buds at the ends of branches) should be done throughout the summer. To get the best harvest, you should do it according to this scheme:
- Juneshould be devoted to the removal of young shoots. This will give the main vine all the nourishment it needs.
- In July, you need to take care of the removal of stepchildren.
- August is minting time (removal of the upper part of the shoots along with the leaves).
A well-formed bush will be easier to care for, its yield will increase. There are two methods of bush formation: stemless and stemless.
Stampless Formation
This approach is justified in areas where it is required to shelter grapes for the winter. The branches of the bush will be arranged in a fan shape. You need to trim according to this pattern:
- In the first year, the plant will produce two to four shoots, which should be kept.
- In the second year, you need to select the two strongest vines and cut them, leaving three buds on each, the remaining branches are removed, and the bush is tied to a trellis.
- For the third year, the four strongest branches should be selected, pairwise directed in different directions. They need to be cut to half a meter in length, and the rest must be removed completely.
- In the fourth year, about fifteen buds should form on each vine.
Stamp formation
Justified in places where winter sheltering of grapes is not required. In this case, the grape bush becomes like a tree. Subordinate vines depart from the main trunk (stem). With this method of pruning, the process of forming a bush takes place more naturally. The advantages of this approach include:
- increasing the size of the bunches;
- the bestlighting and ventilation, increasing frost resistance;
- immunity boost;
- increase in shoot diameter.
This approach to bush formation is well suited to grape varieties with a high growth rate. Formation can begin when a sufficiently strong shoot appears on the bush, which can be cut to a length of just under a meter.
In the first year, the selected shoot is cut to a length of 110 centimeters. In the spring, all shoots on the trunk and fold are cut off, all young shoots on the shoulder from the side of the ground are also removed, except for the last one - it is left to lengthen the shoulder.
In the second year, the shoots saved to form the sleeves are cut into three or four buds, and the shoot to lengthen the shoulder is cut to the required length to complete it. Again shoots are removed from the side of the ground and just weak ones.
In the third year, fruit branches are formed on the first section of the shoulder, and the branches of the plot grown in the second year are cut into three or four buds. In general, there should be about twenty-five shoots per bush.
In the fourth year, you can form fruit branches on the lengthening of the shoulder. The total number of shoots reaches forty. And by the fifth year, the bush can carry a full load of sixty to seventy branches.
Types of pruning formed grape bush
Pruning grapes in summer is also important. For beginners, it is important to remember this, as adult formed bushes also need care. It consists of several stages:
- Pinch. Performed in early summer, beforeflowering. The upper parts of young shoots are removed, which prevents their further growth.
- Pruning stepchildren. Produced weekly after flowering is complete. Shoots are removed from the leaf axils. It is worth removing only the top, in order to avoid the appearance of new stepchildren.
- At the end of summer, for more active ripening of berries, chasing is carried out. When chasing, up to forty centimeters of the upper part of the shoots are removed, leaving a little more than 10 leaves. Don't mint too early - it only stimulates the growth of new stepchildren.
The right approach to the formation of bushes and their further pruning can greatly facilitate the care of the vineyard. In addition, this will positively affect plant he alth, yield size and quality.
