Internal renovation of a house or apartment is a complex and very expensive procedure. It is not surprising that many seek to do it on their own, without involving hired specialists to carry out the work. This is especially true for plastering and tiling, because it is not easy to find good masters of this business, and others simply ask obscene amounts for their services.
Today we will discuss how plaster work is done. If you get used to it, you will surely learn it.
What do you need?
We note right away that in order to perform the work of plastering internal or external surfaces, in any case, you will need a considerable amount of fairly specific skills. If they are not, then something worthwhile is unlikely to come out. However, if you take the preparation seriously, then the plastering work will certainly be completed on time and with high quality.
What are the plaster mixes and what are they forused
Contrary to popular belief, plaster can be used for more than just leveling walls. Depending on the properties and purpose, plaster mixes are divided into several types. Let's take a look at them.
- Regular mixtures are just the same used, leveling walls and other internal surfaces.
- Decorative compositions are used when the treated surface needs to be given some specific look.
- Special blends. This plaster has some special qualities. For example, increased waterproofing ability.
In addition, the compositions are divided depending on their basis: gypsum and cement. Consider the performance of plastering work in more detail.
What are the steps involved in applying plaster?
-
plastering technology First, the surface is carefully prepared: old plaster, dirt and paint residues are removed.
- Beacons are placed, a special plaster mesh is attached.
- A layer of plaster is applied directly.
- Applied material is leveling.
- Pre-installed beacons are being dismantled.
- The surface is carefully leveled, the defects found are eliminated.
Since plastering work is carried out using slightly different technologies in the building and premises, in the article we will consider both of them. We note right away that there are not so many special differences between them, if we do not take into account the increased requirements for interior decoration.
What tools are required to complete the job?
So you have learned about all the main stages that make up the plastering work. The tools for this are the simplest. To apply plaster, you can use a ladle, trowel or trowel. Of course, you will need a building level, a hammer and other tools with which you will eliminate the irregularities found in the walls.
Technology of facade work
Consider outdoor plastering work. If you are going to plaster the facade, then before that you should completely complete all construction work. The reason is simple: if you then start to dismantle something, then be sure to damage the layer of plaster, laid with such difficulty the day before. Houses made of timber and logs cannot be processed in this way in any case, since the tree will give draft in any case. Of course, this leads to deformation and destruction of the upper decorative layer of the coating.
If you so need to plaster a wooden house, you will have to make a high-quality crate. In the case when the mixture is applied to it, such serious deformations no longer occur.
Unlike solid wood buildings, panel houses can be finished immediately after installation. The same applies to brick and foam block. If the wall of the house is old, then it is necessary to process it, eliminating all those areas where crumbling and chipping of its material is observed. All major defects are either chipped or filled with a cement-sand mortar,fixing the design for reliability with a metal mesh.
Here is such a classic plastering technology.
Preparation for work
As we have already said, all the influxes and other irregularities are eliminated as carefully as possible. It is necessary to wait until the cement mixture with which the defects were repaired has completely hardened. After that, the wall is treated with compressed air, relieving it of dust. Then the surface is sprayed with water, priming is carried out. Humidification is essential due to the fact that in this case the primer will adhere much better to the surface to be treated, since the moisture from it will not immediately go into the wall.
If we are talking about a foam block, then such a wall should be primed without fail, because otherwise the plaster will simply fall off from it. This necessarily stipulates the technology of plastering. The fact is that even a fresh foam block intensively draws water, and even a seasoned one - even more so.
If you don't have a primer, you can do it easier. Dilute the plaster mixture to the state of liquid "milk", then treat the foam block with this composition.
Beacons and mounting grid
First, a carefully prepared wall is hung, and then beacons are hung along the vertical level. Depending on the curvature of the coating and the thickness of the plaster, devices with a thickness of 6-10 millimeters are used. In some cases, mortar strips pre-aligned with a level can be used as beacons. Of course, in thiscase, plastering work becomes much easier.
If there is such a need, then you can mount the mounting grid. Only then can a direct coating be applied. Since we're talking about home renovations, you'll almost certainly be applying the compound by hand. This work is extremely labor intensive, so prepare scaffolding and other supporting structures in advance that will protect you from falls and injury.
Some important tips
Without a mounting grid, in no case should a layer of more than 50 millimeters be applied in a thickness. It is used to avoid the formation of deep cracks, which almost always occur due to the slightest irregularities in the original surface. As soon as the final layer of plaster dries up, the beacons are removed, after which the traces of them are carefully rubbed off. Then the coating is rubbed in a circle using special graters. The final processing is done "in dispersal".
Once you have applied the mixture for plaster, it is leveled with a trowel, carefully moving it from bottom to top (focusing on the beacons). Important! If you need to apply a thick layer of coating, then you should never do it in one pass. First you need to apply a primary layer of medium thickness and wait for it to partially dry. After that, it's time for the final plastering. As a rule, there are always detailed instructions on the packaging with mixtures, so we advise you to read them carefully.
Attention! If you missed the start of drying, andthe surface has become too hard and cannot be leveled, you can lightly sprinkle it with water, and then continue to work.
What is grout for?
If you rub the defects in a circle, then there will still be traces of the tool on the surface. When working with wide strokes “in dispersal”, the plaster becomes perfectly even. Note that for the processing of various kinds of columns, arches and other complex architectural forms, special templates are needed, since without them you will inevitably make mistakes that will lead to a deterioration in the quality of work.
How to apply plaster indoors?
Now consider the internal plastering work. As in the previous case, before starting plastering, it is necessary to complete all previous construction work as fully as possible. Until the completion of work, the temperature in the room should not fall below 15 degrees Celsius. Of course, during and after the completion of the plastering, redevelopment of rooms, installation of windows or doors is not allowed. It is also highly desirable to mount the wiring before starting work.
Wall preparation is actually no different from that for outdoor work, but there are still some differences. They are associated with increased requirements for finishing: no defects, cracks or irregularities should remain on the pre-treated wall, since subsequently all of them can appear, hopelessly ruining the look of the room.
Finishing bevels and ceilings
Particular attention during interior work should be paid to plastering bevels and ceilings. The slightest irregularities will be perfectly visible in any light. Therefore, work should be carried out on a clear sunny day, when the light from the sun will pass through the window openings at a right angle.
Start from the upper slope, gradually moving to the lower one. Of course, beacons should always be used. Do not forget that the width of the slopes on all windows must be exactly the same, otherwise the room will look somewhat sloppy. The most difficult thing is to plaster the outer corners. In this case, you can not do without a special mounting grid for such surfaces, since it simultaneously acts as beacons. It is very difficult to plaster semi-circular slopes, which are still often found in old houses.
When you finish the ceiling, the grout should first be carried out against the light, and then in the opposite direction.
Keep in mind that while drying in the room, maintain a constant temperature: plaster does not tolerate temperature fluctuations, as this makes it less durable.
To create the smoothest possible finish, use a quality putty. This is especially true for the bathroom: after finishing the plastering work, the surface is treated twice with putty, and each layer must be thoroughly dried and sanded.
Issue price
By the way, how much does plastering work cost?The cost depends on what composition you use. If we talk about ready-made mixtures, then the cost of a bag of 30 kg (gypsum base) starts from 400 rubles. A similar bag of cement mix is half the price. It is not possible to say about the cost per square meter, since the expense for each will be purely individual.
When choosing plaster mixtures for outdoor use, give preference to those based on cement. It is more difficult to work with them (adhesion to the surface is worse), but they are much more durable and stronger.
If you resort to the help of professionals, then you should familiarize yourself with the price list of the work they provide. In Moscow, for example, prices can be: plastering walls under tiles - 200-250 rubles. for 1 m2; improved wall plastering - 300-360 rubles/m2; improved plastering of the ceiling 350-400 rubles/m2; artistic plaster - from 400 to 650 rubles. for m2.
