There is a fairly wide range of devices with which you can solder something in everyday life. Naturally, the heating elements for soldering irons are also different from each other. If you are going to acquire this tool, then you should, first of all, think about what purpose you need it for, and also be guided by this article to purchase the right thing.
Nichrome heater
The simplest soldering iron is, in fact, a nichrome heater, which is wound through heat-resistant insulation on a copper tip. The current passing through the nichrome heats it up, as a result of which the heating element of the soldering iron also heats up.
There are models for both 20 W and 1.5-2 kW. And the scope of their application is limited to rough electrical work, soldering of small mechanical defects in cases, containers. The reason for such restrictions is the high temperature, which is the basisoverheating of radio components, printed circuit board. Because of this, the use of these elements in microprocessor technology is simply impossible.
Ceramic heater
Soldering irons with a ceramic component are considered more advanced. The heating element of a soldering iron made of such material, with careful handling, lasts much longer than nichrome, and today it is considered the most efficient heater. Soldering irons with a ceramic element have a wide range of temperature control, which already makes them suitable for working with electronics. And some models are even equipped with microprocessor temperature control.
Induction heater
There are also soldering irons with an induction heater. Their work is as follows: a ferromagnetic coating is applied to the heating element for the soldering iron, and the tip itself is placed in a coil. Currents are induced in the ferromagnetic coating, due to which the tip is heated to the desired temperature. At the same time, such a coating reaches the Curie point and loses its magnetic properties, heating stops. When the temperature drops, the magnetic properties are restored, and heating resumes. Thus, the temperature of the soldering tip is maintained without the use of thermocouples, temperature sensors and other unnecessary electronics.
Pulse soldering irons
There are special impulse soldering irons for working with electronics. Their advantage is that they do not have a massivea sting that accumulates heat. Heating occurs almost instantly, because of this, radio components and printed circuit boards do not have time to overheat and, accordingly, do not deteriorate when working with them with such a soldering iron.
The principle of operation of the circuit is based on the use of a transformer, in which the primary winding is wound at 220 V, and the secondary - at 1-2 volts. The latter is closed to low resistance. Due to this, the transformer converts voltage into current, which, passing through the sting, almost instantly heats it up in the thinnest place.
Do not forget about the mode of operation of such a soldering iron. Modern appliances are equipped with a temperature and power controller. For work in places with a lack of electricity, there are mobile versions of soldering irons.
Gas soldering irons
The body of this device has a built-in gas tank, a control valve and a gas burner that heats the tip, due to which the solder melts. When the tip is removed, the soldering iron usually turns into a small, pencil-type gas burner. Refuel such devices, usually like a lighter.
It should be noted that the passport for such a soldering iron indicates the gas with which it should be filled. Due to the lack of precise temperature control, the use in electronics is limited.
Cordless soldering iron
A more advanced mobile version of the soldering iron is a rechargeable soldering iron, which is suitable for soldering electronics. Its excessively low power (no more than 15 W) makes the device not very popular among craftsmen. Although, forFor some jobs, such a soldering iron is indispensable.
Instrument care
Before starting work with any soldering iron, it is worth mechanically processing the tip with sandpaper. How to tin a soldering iron tip:
- Without much diligence and enthusiasm, we grind down the place of tinning a little.
- Then turn on the heat, then dip the tip into the most ordinary rosin and melt a little solder, rubbing the melted ball on a wooden surface.
- The cleaned place should become the color of molten tin, and the drop should stick well.
Over time, after constant work, the copper tip of the soldering iron is covered with scale, soot and shells. It is worth removing carbon deposits after each use, as it interferes with normal heat transfer. Scale along with shells should be cleaned off upon detection. Everything is ground down to a stable copper sheen, and then tinned again.
It is worth noting that there are simply no good soldering irons with a steel tip. If the seller tries to sell you a tool with a sting made of this material, refuse to buy. On the other hand, a steel element can always be replaced with a copper one by turning a copper bar into the shape of a wedge or a needle you need.
