For each model, the subtleties of the construction of cut and tailoring are inherent, which give elegance to clothes. In such a suit, a person feels comfortable and confident. An adjacent model of a jacket, coat or dress looks beautiful with the right type of sleeve. It must have the appropriate shape and size. The most suitable design is a two-seam sleeve. We will consider his pattern in this article.
Two-seam sleeve: construction basics
To begin with, we take the following measurements:
- sleeve length from the top of the joint to the bottom of the wrist;
- length to the elbow of the sleeve from the top point;
- forearm circumference at the widest value;
- girth around the bottom of the wrist.
To the obtained values, add 4-5 centimeters along the rim for a loose fit, and 6 centimeters along the bottom line. These allowances can be more or less depending on the thickness of the material, the model, the desire of the client.
Two-seam sleeveused in models for sewing various types of clothing. Only such details are used in a classic style coat. In models of dresses and shirts, schematic structures of various styles are superimposed on the main pattern (base). The double-seam sleeve of the jacket is used both in classic models and in jackets with turn-down sides.
Sleeve drawing on paper
Before building a pattern, you need to make additional measurements of the height of the armhole in front and behind the model. This value is important to determine correctly. To measure it, under the inner part of the shoulder crease (armpit) of the customer, you need to place a ruler at a right angle (parallel to the floor). It is required to determine the length from the highest point of the shoulder joint along the front edge to the ruler and along the sleeve edge along the back. These measurements are needed to build a pattern for the shelf and back of the product.
Building scheme step by step
Actions look like this:
- On a large sheet of white paper, we begin to build a drawing using a triangle and a pencil. We retreat from the upper left corner 5-6 centimeters and draw two lines at a right angle to the edge of the right side and the bottom.
- The upper left point of the rectangle is denoted A.
- From it, down the line, the length of the sleeve is laid off with an increase of 1 centimeter and is indicated by the letter H. From the same point A, you need to lay down the value of the armhole depth. In the drawing of the base of the bodice, there are two of its values: for the foreground and from the back. To determine the armhole height line onin the drawing, these numbers are summed up, divided in half, and 2 centimeters are subtracted from the resulting figure.
- This value is laid down from A and is indicated by the point G. From the top A, another value is applied - measurement to the elbow. It is denoted by the letter L.
- On the rectangle built on the sheet to the right, we draw straight lines under the triangle from the indicated points (to accurately determine the right angle).
- When constructing the armhole of the front bodice along the rim, there is a point of contact in front with the parameters of the depth of the armhole and the rim at chest level. This value is individual for each pattern, is laid off upwards from G and is indicated by a marker (control point of the junction). The double-seam sleeve is sewn to the bodice with these markers.
- To the right of the vertical line on which the points are marked, half the width of the sleeve is set aside (measurement taken), 4 centimeters are added for a free fit. Through the point of this measurement, a vertical is drawn to the elbow line and is indicated by the signs A₁, G₁, L₁. From G, N 4 centimeters are measured, from L - 2.5 centimeters and are denoted by G₂, L₂, H₁. Dots are connected by a smooth line.
Building an eyeball
Continue drawing the pattern:
- The value of the top line A A₁ is divided in half and is indicated by the letter C. 1 centimeter is measured to the right side and is indicated by P. This is the second control point, which, when connected to the bodice, will coincide with the shoulder seam. A perpendicular line descends from P to the G-line, denoted by G₃.
- The AG line is divided into threeequal cut. The third part of the value is postponed from A, denoted by O₁. A horizontal line is drawn through this point at the intersections with the vertical P - O₂, with the vertical A₁ - O₃. The value of A₁G₁ is divided in half, denoted by O₄. From this point, 3.5 centimeters are deposited to the right side for all sizes, denoted by O₅.
- The length of O₁ O₂ is divided into three parts. The first is laid off from O₁ to the right, denoted by O₆. Points C, O₆, P, O₃ are connected. These segments are divided in half from the marked O₇, O₈, then we measure at a right angle up 1 centimeter. The resulting points are denoted by O₉, O₁₀. A smooth line connects: G₂, O, O₆, O₉, S, P, O₁₀, O₃, O₅.
Building the bottom of the sleeve
For application, the value of the taken measurement of the girth of the wrist is taken, 6 centimeters are added to it for a free fit and divided in half. From H to the right, the resulting value is measured, denoted by H₂. H₃ is obtained by postponing 2 centimeters upward along the H line. From the extreme H₁, 2 centimeters are measured, denoted by H₄. The points H₄, H₃, H₂ are connected, a smooth bottom half of the sleeve is obtained.
Continue building:
- The next step will be a smooth connection of O₅, L₁, N₂. The marker draws a line through the points. It turns out the basis of a two-seam sleeve with an applied top edge.
- The lower part of the sleeve will be drawn on the same sheet with a different pencil color. From G and N₁ to the right, 4 centimeters are measured, G₄, N₅ are set. On the elbow line is measured to the right 5, 5centimeters, it turns out L₃. These three points are connected by a smooth line.
- From the designated O₄ to the left, 3.5 centimeters are measured, it turns out O₁₁. From L₁ to the left, 3.5 centimeters are deposited. It will be L₄. To the left of H₂, 2 centimeters are measured, it turns out H₆. On the vertical G, 1.5 centimeters are deposited from G₃, denoted by O₁₂. Points G₄, O₁₂, O₁₁ are connected by a sagging line.
With a different color of the pencil, circle the resulting diagram of the lower part. The constructed pattern of the pattern must be transferred to a blank sheet of paper.
Where fitted sleeves are used
In all styles of clothing where narrow details are provided, a double-seam sleeve is used. Such a cut looks beautiful not only in models of dresses, jackets and jackets, but also in the items of the upper wardrobe. A properly sewn sleeve adds elegance to the model.
Two-seam set-in sleeve
To build such a model, the main view is taken - with an edge.
Next, we perform the following actions:
- The front side of the eyelet is placed to the left of the picture.
- From the edge, along the line of its depth, 4 centimeters are laid off and a perpendicular line is lowered to the lower segment.
- One and a half centimeters are laid off along the elbow line in both directions and the upper point of the perpendicular line is connected with markers along the elbow line.
- In the lower part of the sleeve, two segments of the elbow groove converge at one point of the bottom H.
- Cut out a groove with scissors and move it to the right. For trying on, you can attach this cut-out partto the right side of the pattern. The double-seam set-in sleeve in the diagram must be correlated in width in the forearm area. If the indicators do not match the measurements taken, the undercut can be expanded or reduced.
- From the central vertical line of the scheme along the horizontal depth of the eye, the right value is taken from the center to the extreme point and divided in half, point K is set.
- The vertical falls from the top edge to the bottom of the sleeve. On the lower (H) horizontal line at the intersection of the vertical line (K), 3.5 centimeters are measured in both directions. The resulting undercut is cut from the very top of the eyelet to the bottom with a smooth line. It turns out two parts of the sleeve.
To build a two-seam from a single-seam sleeve, the main scheme is taken. According to the pattern of the set-in part, marking is carried out. Undercuts are measured and built, which are cut from the edge of the eyelet to the base of the bottom. The resulting parts are connected with tape for fitting.
Iron and stitching
Going to the final stage. Before stitching the parts and attaching to the product, the correct processing of the two-seam sleeve is required. The first is ironing. The upper part along the front side (along the fold line of the arm) is stretched under the influence of moisture and steam. After stitching, the seam is smoothed out on a narrow stand in stages, in three parts, through cheesecloth. The appearance of the sleeve depends on the correctness of this and the next manipulation.
Another seam that will run along the elbow line, on the contrary, needs to shrink. When stitching, this line gathers, then with the help of moisture and steamit is not smoothed out, but straightened folds are pressed down. The outside seams are ironed with a barbed or mesh fabric specially designed for heat-treating pile garments.
