In interior decoration, plastering of walls and ceilings is one of the final stages, aimed at leveling the surface before painting or wallpapering. The process is quite time-consuming and requires certain skills, so ideally, of course, it is better to entrust it to specialists. However, if you are for
savings decided to learn how to plaster on their own - there is nothing unattainable in this desire, you just need to think carefully and thoroughly about the process. You will be convinced that with every square meter you are getting better, and you are more and more satisfied with yourself. So, how to plaster a wall?
Any plaster solution is a mixture of sand and a binder, diluted with water to the desired consistency, which is used as cement, gypsum or lime. It is advisable to use cement plaster where humidity is high: for example, in a bathroom. In dry residential areas, gypsum or lime plaster is more preferable, allowing the walls to “breathe” as much as possible. Consider the conditions of the room before deciding how to plaster the wall. The trading network has a wide selection of ready-madeplaster mixtures, however, you can prepare the mixture yourself. The proportions and consistency of the solution depend on which layer it is intended for.
There are three layers in plastering: spray, primer and coating.
Spattering - the bottom layer, designed to ensure reliable adhesion of the plaster to the wall material. The solution needs mobility, so it should be similar in consistency to thick sour cream. The soil needs to be made thicker: the solution should not “float” and slide under its own weight. The same consistency is used for the nakryvka.
Before plastering the wall, we prepare its surface: we carefully clean it of everything superfluous and install “beacons” - wooden slats or special galvanized profiles that can be purchased at the store. “Beacons”, corresponding to the thickness of the layer, are set strictly according to the level at such a distance from each other that the above rule (the tool with which you will level the spray) overlaps two adjacent “beacons”. In places where there is a gap between the "beacon" and the wall, the gap must be filled with mortar, or wedges should be placed.
Now you can actually start spraying. Slightly wet the surface of the wall and in the intervals between the “beacons” with a trowel, trowel or a special bucket, we throw the solution with sharp movements, moving from top to bottom. The force of the throw is needed so that “pancakes” form on the wall, and not bumps, obviously protruding beyond the “lighthouse” in thickness. We take the rule and, at an acute angle (40-45), pressing it tightly against the “lighthouses”, levellayer, removing excess solution. After the mortar has set, remove the beacons, fill the voids with mortar and level. After this layer has dried up and stopped crumbling, we finally rub it with a wooden grater and proceed to the primer.
The primer is applied in 2-3 layers, 6-8 mm thick each. We impose the solution on the trowel over the entire width and “carry” it along the wall from the bottom up. Of course, each previous layer must be allowed to dry before applying the next. The last layer before covering must be moistened in the same way as before plastering the wall.
The coating is applied with a thickness of about 4 mm. After it dries, it is grouted with a wooden grater. Pressing the grater against the wall, move it in a circular motion over the entire surface. And the last - smoothing with a trowel with a rubberized working surface. We smooth it first vertically, then horizontally, and the wall is ready. After complete drying, you can paint or paste over.
Heat-insulating plaster differs from the usual one in the composition of the primer layer. Sawdust, pumice, slag or other similar (light and porous) materials are included in the solution as a filler instead of sand. There are no special features in working with such a solution, except that the mixing time increases.
