Home oven attracts users with its variety of features. In addition to being used as a heating system, it also serves other purposes. For example, the design of the old "grandfather's" stove contained many functions. This includes baking bread, cooking, heating water, and drying fruit.
Stove materials
A good and high-quality oven requires serious investments and high-quality materials. For a not very expensive option, the required materials make up the bulk of the price. The masonry of the ovens, made by hand, holds about 400 bricks. Basically, a hollow ceramic brick of the M-175 brand is used. For the firebox, you need 20 refractory bricks of the ShB-8 brand.
In addition to bricks, you will need kitchen utensils - these are single-burner and two-burner stoves. Two shutters are required for ventilation shafts. You will also need two blower doors of the DP brand with a size of 15 × 16 cm and a furnace door of the DT brand with a size of 27 × 30 cm. As a mortar for masonrybricks are always used clay-sand with the addition of lime. Clay is the most convenient, as it is resistant to high temperatures. And for laying the combustion chamber with refractory bricks, a cement-sand mortar is required, with the addition of lime. You can start laying the oven with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions are provided below.
Step 1 - choose a location
The oven should give the maximum benefit both for heating rooms, and for cooking food - and even for drying clothes. It should heat several rooms.
Step 2 - preparing the base
It comes down to leveling the surface. The place must have a high degree of hardness so that the stove does not sink after operation. Therefore, if the base is too soft, you need to create a stone-sand mixture or pour the base with concrete. To protect the base of the furnace from dampness, a layer of waterproofing bitumen is placed under the poured foundation. The 1st row of masonry is laid on the base. Reflective insulation is also being installed to keep heat from escaping into the ground.
There are no standard sizes. So, for example, the base of a small heating stove is 3 × 2.5 bricks. For the size standard, without a stove bench, take 3 × 3 bricks. For laying the foundation, a clay-sand mortar is used. If buckets are used in the preparation of the solution, then the proportions of clay and sand will be as follows: for oily clay, 1 bucket of material will require 2.5 buckets of sand; for skinny - for 1 bucket of clay 1 bucket of sand. And to prepare the solution, you must first soak the clay for a day.
First rows of masonry (step 3)
In the laying of the 1st row, the exact dimensions, the thickness of the seams and the convergence of the diagonals must be observed so that there are no distortions. The thickness of the seams of the 1st row should not exceed 0.6–0.8 mm. Do-it-yourself masonry stoves are made from solid standard-sized bricks. It must be level in order to maintain strict horizontality.
In the 2nd row, the brick is laid out in such a way as to make the dressing of the 1st row half a brick. Masonry begins with the extreme rows. Also in the 2nd row lay out a fire cut 120 × 250 mm.
In the 3rd row, they also make a half-brick dressing. Here the laying out of the blower door chamber begins. They also lay the door of the blower chamber.
Sometimes for laying stoves with your own hands in a living room, the dimensions can be changed by half a brick to fit an already installed chimney. Masonry of the 3rd row provides for strengthening the door of the blower chamber.
Blower door chamber (step 4)
The next, 4th row continues to form the blower door chamber with an increased distance for the thickness of the brick, in order to be able to overlay the combustion chamber with fireclay refractory bricks. Here begins the formation of the lower horizontal channel. They form a separate fire-fighting row between the stove and the walls in a simple laying of stoves with their own hands.
The masonry of the 5th row copies the masonry of the 4th - except that the opening of the ash pan is slightly narrowed. On the brick of the 5th row is placedash grate. To control the verticality, you need to install vertical plumb lines at the corners of the masonry furnaces with your own hands. Ordering provides for exact observance of horizontality
5th step. Formation of the combustion chamber
The next, 6th row of masonry furnace forms two vertical smoke channels. To do this, you need to block the horizontal channel with a brick. Thus, a combustion chamber is created that is connected to the vertical channels. A cast-iron grate is installed at the bottom of the furnace to create draft from the blower chamber and ash waste from the furnace. In the 6th row, laying of the refractory bricks of the combustion chamber begins. For do-it-yourself installation in the masonry of the stove stove, you need exact observance of dimensions up to a centimeter. In the masonry of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to create gaps in the bottom of the combustion chamber between bricks of 1–1.5 cm. They will serve as compensators for expansion during heating.
Next, the 7th row continues the formation of the combustion chamber with the installation of the combustion door. It is installed on the 6th row of masonry stoves with your own hands. The order in this case provides for the required dimensions under the door. You also need to block the U-shaped channels to create three smoke exhaust channels.
After that, the 8th and 9th rows are laid out equally. On the 9th, the furnace door is closed. The bricks are slightly crimped on both sides in the left side of the firebox in order to make passages for gases from the firebox to the left channel.
Next, the 10th row of masonry is laid out from refractorybricks. He covers the furnace. For good circulation of gases, it is necessary to strictly observe the vertical and horizontal masonry.
Stove hob (step 6)
In the 11th row, in the laying of brick ovens with your own hands, you also need to use refractory bricks to create the hob of the oven. At the edges with which the brick is in contact with the hob, you need to cut the edges of the brick by 2 cm. In the 11th row, the hob door is installed on the previous row of masonry. The do-it-yourself scheme of laying stoves, laying a cooking stove in particular, indicates that in the 12th row, two left channels are connected into one, and in the next, they are divided into two channels.
In the 14th row, which is laid out identically to the 13th, a flap is installed. It can cover the hob. This allows you to turn off the stove in the summer from the cooking furnace. In the 15th row of laying brick ovens, the damper is closed with one's own hands, and in the 16th row the door of the cooking chamber is closed. Between the cooking and front chambers, a ventilation hatch is installed on the left, through which the vapors are removed.
In the 17th row, the ventilation door is closed. Above the cooking chamber, two steel rods are embedded in the masonry, which serve to cover the cooking chamber. Further, the 18th and 19th rows completely cover the cooking chamber.
7th step. Formation of flue ducts
In the 20th row on the back wall at the overlap of the cooking chamber, two bricks are installed on the edge at a distance of 4 cm from the backchamber walls. Two doors are installed for the samovar pipe and cleaning. The laying of the 21st row is identical.
In the 22nd row, all doors overlap. Three channels are formed above the hob - two channels of 11 cm and one 5 cm.
In the 23rd and 24th rows, two long holes are blocked by placing a brick on the edge.
The next rows of masonry, the 25th and 26th, repeat the masonry of the 22nd row, and the 27th and 28th rows consist of three bricks that are laid on the edge at the same distance between themselves and the walls.
Masonry fireproof zone (step 8)
Do-it-yourself drawings of masonry furnaces suggest that in the 29th row one is formed from two channels. Two bricks are installed in front, connecting with bricks installed on edge.
In the 30th row, all channels are blocked with the opening of the chimney hole. The last rows of laying the ordering furnace, the 31st and 32nd, are installed above the fuel chamber, forming a fireproof zone.
The last thing in laying a brick oven is the laying of the chimney, in which all fire safety measures must be observed so that the chimney is most isolated from flammable parts of the house.
This is how the ordering oven is made, which can serve as a stove for cooking, as a heating stove, and as an oven.
Economic stove in the house
When we talk about home comfort, we certainly remember the thermal characteristics of an apartment or premises in a house. ForTo create the most optimal conditions, thermal insulation of external walls, windows and doors is required. But sometimes even with high-quality insulation in the house there is not enough heat. And in order for it to fill our premises all the time, there is an option to build an economical autonomous stove in the house. She, like no other heating, can create a guarantee of warmth, and with it an atmosphere of home comfort.
Building an oven is no easy task. It should not only be a hotbed of heat, but also not pose a danger to the house. The main thing is to remember that fire safety requires reliable isolation of firing points from flammable things in the house.
Stove masonry and mortars
Construction begins, as usual, with the foundation. So that it, as they say, "does not float" and does not crack, the base of the foundation is covered with a stone-sand cushion with obligatory cement pouring and waterproofing of the base. Laying out rows is carried out in several stages. The first stage in the laying of furnaces with your own hands is the laying of the base, on which its firing part will be located. The material used is ordinary red brick and a mortar of clay, sand and cement.
Clay is the most convenient and high-quality material for the construction of various types of heating structures. To give the solution higher qualities, slag or metal filings can be added instead of sand, which will make the solution more durable. For laying the firebox, you need to use refractory bricks with high thermal conductivity. To improve the heat transfer of the furnacemoves in the firebox must be made with all kinds of pockets and zigzag horizontal channels to retain heat in them. It is also important that the heat of the fire heat as much of the area as possible.
In the summer, when the house does not need to be heated, the clay solution absorbs moisture - and the stove becomes a little sour. Therefore, in order to prevent deoxidation, especially of the fuel chamber, a cement-sand mortar is used for masonry. For it, you need to purchase high-quality Portland cement of the M400 brand and pure mountain sand without impurities.
Ceramic tiling of a room oven
In the modern civilized world, an old stove in a house with an exquisite interior can only spoil the owner's reputation. In order to fit an old stove into a modern design, you can resort to a more interesting way of lining with ceramic tiles or finishing bricks.
For the reliability of gluing the facing tiles, the surface of the oven is cleaned of dust, dirt and grease stains. All cracks and recesses are sealed and plaster is made with cement mortar using a cement grade of at least M400. You can also purchase special hot melt glue for oven plastering.
Firebox reinforcement
Sometimes in heated places around the firebox, a metal mesh is used to reinforce the plaster. The grid is attached to the wall with metal dowels. A layer of plaster is applied to the mesh so that it covers it by a few millimeters. After the plaster has completely dried, ceramic tiles are laid.heat-resistant tiles on heat-resistant adhesive.
Each part has its own heating temperature, at which the process of expansion of the facing tile takes place. Therefore, it is laid with stitching. Highly elastic putty is used to seal the seams so that it does not crack when heated.
Swedish oven masonry
Let's talk about the Swede, a cooking and heating stove, which is slightly inferior to the Russian one, but more practical in that it heats up quickly. You can install a Swedish oven in the wall between the kitchen and the room. Only during the cooking period, it will quickly heat both the kitchen and the room. In the masonry of the Swede oven with your own hands, the ordering provides for several niches. The top one is for drying clothes. It is heated during cooking and continues to heat up from the dying coals.
The niche above the stove serves as an oven to store warm food in it during the winter cold. During the night, the niche above the stove can keep warm food that is needed in the morning for quick cooking. Sometimes, but not in all cases, the Swede was equipped with a heil or just a smoke exchange, which gives quite a lot of heat from the smoke. But the do-it-yourself smoke circulation of the Swedish oven masonry is complex in design and significantly affects the price.
Also, the Swedish oven also has a second oven, which gives a lot of heat. The only drawback is that it heats the floor a lot. In order not to lose heat, it is necessary to provide for a strong insulation of the base of the furnace from the floor. A very good insulator for a Swede today isbas alt cardboard.
Insulation is made in such a way as not only not to let heat from the furnace into the ground, but also to reflect it upwards. This requires three layers of bas alt cardboard. The first layer of laying the stove for the house with their own hands is laid directly on the ground under the base of the foundation. The middle one is made of bas alt fiberboard with a reflective foil coating that will reflect the heat back into the stove.
For the furnace you need fireclay bricks and fireclay clay for mortar. It should be noted that the laying of refractory bricks should not come into contact with the laying of ordinary bricks. The gap between the laying of fireclay and ordinary bricks should be up to 6 mm. Based on the fact that thermal bricks are much more expensive, only the inner wall of the firebox is laid out for them. In the rest of the masonry, ordinary bricks are used.
