How to make a DIY 3D printer? Few people are interested in this question, but there are still people who ask it. Such a device is very convenient and can be useful even in everyday life. Of course, assembling such a device is not so easy, and you will also have to spend some money, but the result is worth it. In addition, a homemade version will be much cheaper, and if assembled correctly, it will also be better in some aspects of work.
Why choose the manual option?
Here it is important to start with the fact that assembling a homemade 3D printer with your own hands is a procedure that will require a certain amount of time, and approximately 20,000 rubles. Here, many may think about why not buy a ready-made printer for 15-20 thousand? The answer is simple enough. Most often, these are Chinese cheap assemblies that will not last long enough. The first disadvantage is that the cases of such devices are most often made of acrylic or plywood. This will result in a constant struggle with device stiffness when printing, as well as constant calibrations.
In addition, cases made of these materials are also flexible. When printing at higher speeds, this will cause the printer to "walk" and this will significantly affect the quality of the printed model. Most often, the owners of such models spend a lot of time, effort and money to strengthen / strengthen the frame. The essential difference between such a Chinese product and a self-made 3D printer assembled by oneself is that steel can be used as a frame.
In order to successfully assemble the device, you will need a soldering iron, a set of screwdrivers, hexagons, a little knowledge of electronics and following the instructions exactly. By following these simple rules, almost anyone can assemble such a device.
Assembly parts
Naturally, different parts and tools will be needed to assemble the printer.
The first and most important part is the frame. The heavier and more stable this element is, the better. This saves the owner the constant struggle with poor quality parts made at high speeds. A steel frame from any Russian manufacturer is perfect here. The cost of the part is approximately 4,900 rubles. Here it is worth adding that the frame will come complete with all the necessary fasteners.
Separately, it is worth taking care of buying guide shafts, as well as M5 studs. Although the pictures show that they come with a frame, in fact they are not there. Shaft kit consists of 6 parts. To assemble a 3D printer with your own hands, you will need only 1 such set worth 2,850 rubles. can be found andcheaper, but you need to look for polished models. Otherwise, all the jambs of elements will be reflected in the quality of printed parts.
As for the M5 studs, you need to purchase them in pairs. The price of one piece is 200 rubles. In fact, these are the most common studs that you can buy at a hardware store. The most important thing is that they should be as even as possible. In order to check this parameter, you can put the part on the glass and roll it. The better the product rides, the smoother it is. The guide shafts are checked in the same way. These parts are the second step you need to take to build your DIY 3D printer.
Electronic parts and mechanics for them
The next step is the acquisition of electronics. You need to buy parts such as RAMPS 1.4, Arduino Mega 2560 R3 and A4988 stepper drivers. The cost of all three parts will be approximately 1,045 rubles.
Now more about everything. RAMPS 1.4 is the main expansion board for Arduino. A do-it-yourself 3D printer assembled according to this scheme will have this board as a basis. It is to it that the rest of the electronic elements, motor drivers and so on will be connected. The entire power part of the printer will be supported by this board. It is also worth noting here that such a board does not have "brains", there is nothing to burn there. This suggests that buying a spare part does not make sense.
All electronics must have a "brain". When assembling a 3D printer with your ownhands on the Arduino 2560 R3, this part will be that. Firmware will be uploaded to this element in the future. This element is quite easy to burn, for example, if you insert the driver for the stepper motor incorrectly, reverse the polarity when connecting the limit switch. All this will cause the board to burn out, and on the first assembly, when there is no experience, this happens quite often, and therefore it is worth buying a spare.
Step drivers in such a device will be responsible for the operation of the motors. It is also recommended to purchase one set of spares. There is an important detail. These devices have a construction resistor. It should not be twisted, since it is most likely already set to the desired current.
When assembling a 3D printer on Arduino with your own hands, it is best to take the Arduino MEGA R3 as a spare board. The cost of the spare part is 679 rubles. As for the replacement driver kit, it's better to buy a 4-piece set rather than a 2-piece set. They will cost 48 rubles each.
You will also need a step-down voltage regulator to protect the Arduino board. It will cost only 75 rubles. The operating parameters are a decrease from 12 V to 5 V. However, such electronics are very capricious. It gets quite hot, often fails.
The fifth step is to purchase a set of stepper motors. The cost of this set is 2490 rubles. It is worth noting here that there are 5 copies in the kit, and only 4 will be needed to assemble the printer. You can, of course, look for a set of 4 pieces, but it is better to buyfull. One will remain as a spare, or it can be used to equip an additional extruder to print auxiliary parts of parts or to make products two-color.
Mechanical Parts
To assemble a 3D printer with your own hands, you will definitely need a set of bearings, couplings and belts. The cost of one set is 769 rubles. Buying anything extra or spare parts does not make sense. Everything you need to assemble is here.
Mechanical stops. The details are quite small, but very important, because without them it will not be possible to operate the device. The price for 1 piece is 23 rubles. For a successful assembly, you need only 3 copies. However, it's worth buying four to have one spare, just in case.
Display with built-in card reader. To assemble a 3D printer with your own hands, this item is optional. However, this is only if all equipment is connected to a computer and models will be printed from it.
Although, as practice shows, it is better to purchase such a display in any case. It has a card reader on the back, into which an SD card with models for printing is inserted. Firstly, it will help make the device more mobile, it can be moved to any room. Secondly, printing will not be interrupted if, for example, the computer shuts down or freezes in the middle of work. Also, the ability to work with the equipment will remain even if the PC fails.
Of course, you will need a power supply. Takeyou need 12 V. It will be slightly larger in size, but it will be installed inside the case without any problems. And its power will be even with a margin. It costs about 1,493 rubles.
You'll also need a hot table. The price for this part is 448 rubles. It is worth noting here that a hot table for a do-it-yourself 3D printer is needed only when printing with ABS plastic. If PLA or any other type that does not shrink when cooled is used, then it is not necessary to heat the platform at all. The table itself is required, as glass will be laid on it.
Internal parts and cooling
You will need buttons and terminals for 220 V. The cost of components is 99 rubles apiece.
An important part when assembling a 3D printer with your own hands is an extruder. For this device, it is best to use a direct extruder. In other words, this element will act as a mechanism that feeds the plastic. It will be located directly under the heating element. It is best to take the direct model, as it will allow you to work with all types of plastic without any problems. The kit includes everything you need for installation. The cost of the device is 2,795 rubles.
When working with PLA and other types of slow curing plastics, you will need a cooler to blow the part. It costs only 124 rubles. When assembling a large 3D printer with your own hands, you will also need a large cooler to blow the drivers. It is necessary as it will significantly reduce the amount of noise emitted,printer.
Another important element will be the nozzle. It costs only 17 rubles apiece, so it is better to take several pieces at once. In addition, replacing them when they become clogged is much easier than cleaning them. It is important to note here that the nozzle diameter affects the speed and quality of the 3D model. The larger the diameter, the more noticeable the layers, but the printing is faster, and, conversely, the smaller the diameter, the better the quality, but the speed decreases. Sufficient diameter for good quality would be 0.3mm.
You will also need a cleaning drill. However, such thin consumables break quite often, so you need to be careful.
You will need to purchase a small set of table springs. There are 5 pieces in the set, and only 4 are needed for the table. The fifth is used to limit the movement of the X axis. The cost is 56 rubles per set.
You will need to buy two sets for adjusting the table, each of which costs 36 rubles. Of these kits, only long bolts are required, with which the extruder will be attached. In order to connect stepper motors, you will need a set of wires - 128 rubles.
The last element is a piece of ordinary glass on the table. Here you can buy custom-made borosilicate glass, which is resistant to elevated temperatures.
This list is complete. Having all the parts available, you can make a 3D printer with your own hands so that the quality of the parts made on it will practically not differ from those that are made on factory models. The total cost of all parts will be approximately 20,000 rubles.
Assembling a DIY 3D printer: step by step instructions
Prusa I3 STEEL model will be used as an assembly example.
1. Naturally, the first step is to assemble the frame. First you need to insert the side scarves into the steel frame. M3x12 bolts are used as fixing elements. Here it is worth noting that on the case there is a hole for the control button. After assembly, it should be at the top right (when looking at the frame from the front).
2. Next, the assembly of the rear panel with the bracket for the engine is carried out. There is also a small nuance here. The threaded rivets for the fixing elements must face the inside of the frame. First you need to insert the two parts used to mount the engine into the grooves in the center. M3x12 bolts are also used as fixation. A plastic spacer is inserted between the mounts.
3. Once the back panel is assembled, it can be attached to the main frame. We fix everything with the same bolts. Before proceeding to the installation of the front wall, it is worth installing stiffeners.
4. The next step is to install the front panel. The threaded connection must also face the inside of the frame. During assembly, you need to use M3x12 bolts and one M3x35. A bearing model 608zz is also used, which is spaced by M8 washers. An M8x25 bolt is also inserted here, which is fixed with a cap nut.
5. After that, the tensioner is attached to the front wall of the frame. The finished structure is fixed on the bodyusing bolts.
6. The next step is to assemble the heating mold carriage. For mounting, it is necessary to install the bearing model LM8uu in the grooves. They are fixed with clamping plates. They, in turn, are tightened with M3x12 bolts. In order to maintain such an important parameter as bearing alignment, it is recommended to install the shaft first, and only then tighten the fixing screws. In order to fix the fixing strap, you need to use M3x20 screws, as well as hexagonal racks. First, the screws are inserted, and only then the racks are mounted. Next, a plate is attached that fixes the belt and nuts of the M3 type are tightened.
7. The next item is the installation of shafts L=395 in the front wall of the frame. A table carriage is put on them and pushed all the way into the back wall. The front and rear shafts are fixed with pressure plates. M3x16 type screws are used. If it is necessary to distance the pressure plate, washers can be used.
8. Next, you need to proceed to the assembly of the right carriage for the X axis. To assemble according to the instructions of the 3D printer with your own hands, you need to do the following. M3x12 screws are used. It is necessary to install LM8uu bearings in the grooves. They are fixed with plastic ties, 2 pieces for each part. To fix a bearing model such as 608zz, you need to use an M8x25 bolt and a cap type nut.
9. The left carriage for the same axis, as well as the carriage for the extruder, is assembled in the same way. Here it is worth paying attention that the bearings of the extruder carriage must befacing inward instead of outward as the X-axis carriages.
Recommendations for assembly
The complete instructions are much longer, however, this is the basis, which is very important to assemble correctly. It is also very important to note that there are some additions that have been learned through trial and error by previous masters.
Firstly, a DIY 3D printer does not require the use of 625z type bearings to mount the end supports. Therefore, they should not be ordered. The lead screws are best left free-floating. This will help to get rid of such a defect, which is called wobble. Further, when assembling the carriages in the images, a black steel spacer is often used. However, such a part is usually not included in the frame kit itself. Instead, there are plastic bushings, which should be used.
Another important point regarding the mounting of the limit switch for the Y axis. You need to mount it not to the back wall, but to the front. If you do not do this, then all models will be printed in a mirror image. There is no way to fix this in the firmware of the printer itself. In order to carry out the transfer, you need to solder the terminal to the back of the board.
The instructions for assembly do not present the same type of extruder that was previously purchased according to the plan. However, the essence of its attachment remains the same. The only difference is that you will have to use long bolts for this, which you need to take from the table mounting kit. The frame kit does not include bolts that long to use.
Regarding the correct assembly of electronics. When connecting the RAMPS and Arduino parts, there is an important detail that is rarely written about in the instructions, but it is very important to keep the printer running smoothly in the future. To do this, the arduino needs to be decoupled from the power that was initially supplied to it from the RAMPS board. This is done very simply. The diode responsible for this function is soldered or cut off from the board.
You need to solder a voltage regulator to the power input, which is initially set to 5 V. You can fix the regulator where it is most convenient for the person who assembles the device. In some DIY 3D printer building tutorials, the filament may act as the necessary element to connect something.
Using the appliance
You need to understand that the correct assembly is not enough to successfully operate a rather complex printer mechanism. It is necessary to carry out preparatory work. You must have official firmware from 3D--diy.
The process of uploading the program is carried out using the Arduino IDE 1.0.6. After that, on the display of the printer itself, you need to press the Auto Home button. Then you need to make sure that the limit switches were connected correctly, and that the correct polarity for the steppers was observed. If the movement is directed in the opposite direction from the desired direction, then you just need to turn the terminal, which is located near the motor, 180 degrees. If, after turning on the printer, an unpleasant whistle is heard, then most likely these are steppers. To get rid of this squeak, you need to tighten the trimmers on them.
It is recommended to start printing models from PLA-plastic. It is distinguished by the fact that it does not "naughty" during operation, and it also sticks perfectly to the blue adhesive tape sold in hardware stores.
Why the base of the Prusa I3 model was used:
- You can use any kind of plastic or flexible rod as the print media.
- The model is considered the easiest in its assembly, maintenance and repair.
- Differs in rather high reliability among other products.
- Considered to be a very common model, which means that it will not be difficult to find information on any issue related to the device.
- There is room for improvement. You can install either two extruders, or one, but with a double head.
- This model is considered the most affordable in terms of its cost.
Models from DVD and H-bot system
If you are going to make a 3D printer from a DVD with your own hands, then you need to understand the principle of its operation. Most often, the RAP Print device is made on the basis of such devices. In this case, digital models of 3D objects to be printed are loaded into the instrument software. Next, an optical system from a CD or DVD drive will be used. It moves along two horizontal axes X and Y. However, here it will be important to change the laser diode, which is installed in such drives, to an ultraviolet diode. Its cost is only 20 rubles.
As for a DIY H-bot 3D printer, here you need to understand what it is. H-bot is a kinematics for a 3D printer.
Best to collecta self-made model based on ready-made ones, as was the Prusa i3. However, here, of course, we will have to use another model as the initial one. An example of assembling an "Ultimeyker" or "Signum" printer is suitable. The body is assembled from sheet materials. Next, you need to start manufacturing the X and Y axes. Some instructions say that it is best to use aluminum corners for this. However, if a suitable material is not at hand or it is impossible to buy, then aluminum can be replaced with 4 mm plywood.
In closing
Thus, today the topic: "Making a 3D printer with our own hands", which was raised extremely rarely not so long ago, is now not only in great demand. Masters have learned to make such devices on their own. The main advantages of home models are that they are several times cheaper than ready-made factory ones. In addition, the quality of printed models in some cases is not inferior to, and maybe even better than that of factory fixtures. Most often, this is noticeable when comparing cheap Chinese devices with homemade ones. So we hope that now everyone can assemble a 3D printer with their own hands if necessary. And the step-by-step instructions presented in the review will help with this.
