Building a frame for the installation of drywall structures is a completely feasible task without specialists, it requires a little skill and patience.
The main condition when building a frame is that it can move a little and not be rigidly fastened along the edges if it is planned to prime the surface at the seams.
For a wallpapered wall, it doesn't matter, because if cracks appear, they won't be visible. But from the point of view of technology, this, of course, is very bad, because cracks will never lead to good. Many people think about how to attach a profile to a profile. To the base? Many nuances? And this desire is quite justified, because if you make even a small mistake, you will have to redo everything.
Before starting work
You need to sketch on paper the best plan for how to attach the profile to the profile so that there is not much waste, and place the frame and drywall in the best way. See which option will save the most material. Estimate the size of the door, and if the sheets are larger than necessary, then a freight elevator with a wide door is needed, because in the worst case, the sheets are 3 by 1, 2m may not enter doorways.
Need to count the amount of material. To avoid confusion, it should be remembered that UD is a guide profile, it is mounted on walls, it comes in sizes 28 by 27. CD is the main profile, only these two are enough for walls, but when installing the ceiling frame, you need another one, it goes in the role jumpers between profiles. It is easy to calculate the required number of UD profiles for the ceiling, according to the formula K \u003d P / 3, where K is the number of profiles 3 m long, P is the perimeter of the room. If the dimensions are 3100 mm, then, in order not to add 100, you can make K=P / 4 by 4 m. For a wall, instead of the size of the room, you need the perimeter of the plane.
CD profile calculation
When working, it is necessary to take into account the length and width of the room. We divide the latter by the distance between the profiles and select the length depending on the length of the room, if 3 m - the profile is 3 m; 3, 5 - then 4, so that the work goes faster, you don’t have to worry about the leftovers - they will go instead of crabs, we will save on material.
For example, the width of the room is 5600 mm, the length is 3100, and there will be a strong ceiling for a chandelier. Then the step between the profile is 600 mm, we divide 5600 by 600, it turns out 9, 3. That is, we need 9 profile blanks 4 m, given the length of the room 3100. In extreme cases, you can buy 10 profiles 3 m long, cut the 10th into segments 100 mm each and add to the nine available, but we will also need 9 connecting pieces, and it is not known if we will win.
Calculation of other materials
Jumpers are calculatedin the same way, but taking into account the dimensions of the drywall board: the distance between the jumpers is 1200 or 600 mm, ideally, so that there are fewer consumables. To fix the UD profile, we need dowel-nails 6 x 60. It’s easy to calculate, divide the length and width by a distance of, say, 400 mm, then we need 44 dowels.
We also believe that to attach the bracket we need 2 dowels per 1 element, suspensions - taking into account the pitch of 600 mm - 5 pcs per one CD profile, we have 9 of them, which means 5 x 9=36, multiply by 2 and get 72 pcs, add 44 dowels that we need for the profile, and get 116 pcs.
Many beginners do not know how many self-tapping screws are needed and how to properly attach. The profile is securely attached to the profile using 2 self-tapping screws. To fasten the profiles between the brackets, you also need 2 self-tapping screws, a profile and a connector - 2 pieces, jumpers with it - 4 pieces, plus 50-60 pieces are needed for each sheet, in the end about 500 pieces, if taken with reserve, given that some may break and so on.
How to install profiles correctly?
How can I attach a profile to a profile? Installation rules are simple.
In order to qualitatively connect two frame elements with each other, you need to fix them with small special metal screws - fleas, which are designed for use on these profiles.
When fastening along the edges of the room, profiles cannot be connected to each other so that the ceiling can move freely and there are no cracks and defects in the plane.
How to attach a profile to a T-profileconnection without a crab? It is necessary to bend either the central plane of the profile, or the side faces. In the first option, a less reliable mount will be obtained. To connect the side faces, you need to bend them and attach with 2 fleas to each bent shelf to the profile.
Crabs are used for X-shaped fastening of elements. They can also be fixed to a T-connection by first removing one face.
How to attach a profile to a profile without a crab? In order to properly connect the profiles, it is necessary to cut off the edges at the junction points, if they interfere, and further strengthen the fastening with self-tapping screws - small screws called "bugs" or "fleas".
If we need to lengthen the profile, then this can be achieved by overlapping or butt-joining the profile - using a piece of an unnecessary profile element or a guide, respectively, fastening them with fleas for reliability.
How to connect profiles?
Many people ask the question: "How to attach a profile to a profile? What is the difference between screws from each other?" You can fasten the elements with the help of various self-tapping screws, which are called bedbug screws, bedbugs, bedbugs with a drill and tacks. But how can you attach a profile to a profile using self-tapping screws? To do this, you just need to press hard and scroll, marking a point. Therefore, they are not made too long, for convenience.
Bedbugs with a drill, self-tapping screws and screws differ only in that they are intended for variousprofile thickness: bedbugs with a drill - for profiles up to 1 mm, so that you can simultaneously drill a hole and securely tighten in one go without a drill and changing nozzles on a screwdriver.
How to fasten a profile to a profile with a Tex self-tapping screw? This screw is the same bug, but is designed for thick profiles, 1-2 mm. Unlike the small bed bug, it can be used for profiles as well as thicker designs, which is very handy when stocked.
Also, many self-tapping screws of this type have special notches, which prevents unwinding during operation. Additional drilling of the hole is not required, the self-tapping screws are screwed in by pressing into the profile. The following details how to attach a profile to a profile.
Profile installation instructions
The profile must be connected with fleas 9.5 mm long. At the corners, it is necessary to remove one side edge in the design to the width of the adjoining part, with the addition of 20 mm for the drywall sheet so that they are without a gap.
For reliability in the adjoining profile, you can delete the central face, and the side faces can be bent and fastened to the main profile.
This is a guarantee that the chandelier attached to the frame will not fall over time. But often without this addition, the construction is quite strong.
Ear mounting is used for complex elements where one face is required. For example, to fix a structural element in the form of a rack, vertically to the ceiling, when building a plasterboard wall.
Mounting the uprights
With this method, all unnecessary faces should be cut at the junction, leaving the only one necessary for the connection. Fasten with a dowel at an angle of 45 degrees, at the bend.
Many people make the mistake of attaching only one edge to the ceiling, without a dowel at the fold. In this case, the stand is held unreliably and will stagger. The additional reinforcement of the edge usually has no effect - it still moves on the bend.
To build plasterboard walls in a room for the first time, you also need “ears” for installation, that is, profile edges, without the element itself.
The ends of the extra edges of the profile should be removed, leaving the necessary, the desired length. The profile is used for additional fixation of two elements located in parallel.
How to make a metal frame for a wall?
How to attach a profile to a profile? A photo in which you can see the assembled profile frame is shown below.
Let's move on. Where to start and how to attach a profile to a drywall profile?
The profile is fastened in the same way, but taking into account the verticality of the surface, without jumpers and many reinforcements. To begin with, using the level, the verticality of the future plasterboard wall is measured. Using a laser level and a pencil, we draw places for attaching a UD profile. If we only have a water level, then we need to pull the thread along the entire wall, after fixing it to the dowel-nails.
Manipulating the thread, you need to achieve an eventhe location of the profiles along the perimeter of the wall so that the thread not only does not touch the protrusions and irregularities, but there is also enough space for the CD profile.
How to properly attach a profile to a profile when building a vertical frame? This is done when the UD profile is attached around the perimeter, after which you need to carefully measure everything and then fix the CD with fleas to the UD profile. They should be no closer than 400 mm from each other, after the exact location of the entire frame, carefully nail the brackets behind them on the dowel-nail.
Markup UD profile for the ceiling
First, a thread is pulled, along which a reference level is measured, usually about 10 cm below the base. Then the horizontal plane of the future plane is measured, and marks are placed.
Then you need to attach a guide profile to the marks, you can’t attach drywall to it in the future, because the ceiling and walls move relative to each other, depending on the humidity and ambient temperature.
Holes need to be made every 50 cm, for 3 m you need 6 pcs. It is better to stick a sealing tape on the reverse side before installation - it dampens vibrations, protects against cracks and creates additional sound insulation.
Then you need to draw a mark on the wall along the extreme hole, then attach the edge to the base and set the profile according to the marks so that it is in a horizontal level. On the opposite side, make a hole, again matching all the marks, and only then thoroughly fasten the profile to the rest of the holes.
Marking other elements during installationframe
Measure the attachment points of the side hangers - this is a U-shaped bracket that is attached to the base, in this case, to the ceiling, and to the profile.
It should also be determined in advance that the distance between the profiles at the edges does not exceed 120 cm, that is, it is possible to do less at the edge, but not more than 120 cm, so we form a line for attaching the main profiles on which they will hold drywall sheets.
It is important at this stage to determine the lighting and wiring scheme so that they do not fall on the frame, because it may not withstand the load of the lamp. It is better to attach them to the base as well, and it is important that the attachment points of the fixtures and profiles do not intersect.
When fixing hangers that will become brackets in the future, it is also important to attach a seal to the flat side and fix it with the skirt down in 1 m increments.
When is the frame for the ceiling built? How do I attach a profile to a profile?
Step by step instructions:
1. We take the main profile, it is often shorter than the ceiling, so the profiles are interconnected by a special mount that securely keeps it from bending.
2. In the role of fastening, even the same piece of profile can be suitable. It is very convenient to attach the water level to the profile in order to work on the level without any problems, without looking up from the workplace and without making unnecessary movements. The profile is attached to the hangers using self-tapping screws.
3. Then, after pre-assembly, crabs are attached to the main profile - specialclip-connectors, which greatly simplify the installation of load-bearing profiles - short transverse rails, they are attached to the main profile.
4. All other components of the frame are attached to the crabs, depending on the design, because in addition to the plasterboard ceiling, it is also possible to mount the wall adjacent to the ceiling.
You should not neglect safety precautions when performing work, use sharp scissors, throw profile cuts under your feet into the work area.
Before attaching the profile to the profile, there must be a separate place for drywall that will not interfere with either the profile or the work. All parts, profiles and tools should be located in certain places.
The screwdriver must be in good working order, cords, carrying - lie on the floor and in no case be below the possible flight path of the cut off piece of profile.
The ladder must be stable. From the bottom of the working area and a possible fall of a sheet of drywall, a partner and assistants cannot move, you need to be a little to the side, but not directly under the sheet.