Electric cable laying can be done in two ways, overhead and underground. For some, the second option is more acceptable, but for some it is not feasible due to the distance and a number of other conditions. And therefore, most often, the owners of country houses prefer to choose the air method of laying electrical wires from the power line support to their homes.
Inception
It's hard to imagine a cottage or country house without electricity. The organization of supplying energy to a residential building is a very responsible matter, because the reliability of the power supply at home and, most importantly, its safety depends on the result. Work on connecting private houses to a power line (power line) should be carried out only by a specialist of the institution that owns it. When choosing an air route for laying the cable, you will need a pipe stand. To enter electricity to the site, this thing is indispensable. It is a hollow metal tube designed for fastening and hanging cables and wires.
Following the rules
According to the rules, it is allowed to mount other equipment on such specialized racks, including transmitting and receiving antennas. By the way, a pipe stand for introducing electricity may also be needed with an underground method of supply. After all, if the distance from the ground to the entrance to the building is less than 2.75 meters, then its use will also be required. This is necessary in order to avoid accidentally touching the wires, and only its length will provide a distance from the ground to the input point.
More about usage
A pipe rack for introducing electricity is a piece of pipe, bent from above, which is mounted on the roof or on the top of the wall of the house. From there, this object can go inside. In order to mount the pipe rack on the roof, steel extensions are used. It is attached to the wall with brackets and screws. Through the end of the pipe, wires are inserted and output both into the building and out of it. In a literal sense, the pipe rack for the input of electricity is the entry point of the electrical cable into the building, from where it will be brought further to the power receiving devices.
The specific and main task of this thing, sometimes referred to among electricians as a “gander”, is to protect the object, that is, in this case, a residential building, from any potential fire risks, plus it is also a guarantee of reliable protection and maintenance of what is passing inside power cable intact.
Bringing to the site
If the distance between the power line and the house is more than 20 m, then it is necessary to install an additional pipe rackfor the input of electricity, approximately somewhere in the middle of this gap. This will avoid breaking the cable from its own gravity or from environmental influences, such as strong winds and other precipitation. A special cable is pulled between the points, which prevents the wire from sagging. The conductor is attached to it with clamps. If it is required to pull the cable over the roadway, then its height above the ground should be from 6 meters and above. Above the roads for pedestrians, it is allowed from 3.5 meters and above, but in no case below this value. Wiring through trees and bushes is prohibited.
Air gasket details
A special metal riser pipe is used both as a channel for the cable and as a support for fixing insulators. Because it is much more convenient and easier to mount them to it than to the wall of a building. Self-tapping screws, bolt clamps and any other fasteners for metal are suitable for connection and reliable fixation. The pipe rack for the input of electricity must be connected to the ground wire. From the roof surface, the cable is placed at least a two-meter gap. Actually, with regard to wires, any types are applicable that correspond in their characteristics to the requirements of outdoor wiring.
Staying up to standard
If possible, can some types of work be done by yourself? A specific example: will there be any problems with the power grid if a pipe rack is made independently for the input of electricity?Do-it-yourself execution is allowed, provided that the result obtained fully complies with the technical conditions. This element is made of steel pipe. If it is necessary to enter two wires, then its inner diameter should be 20 mm, and for four wires - 32 mm. To prevent moisture from entering the pipe, its end must be bent down, literally turned in the form of a hook 180 degrees in the opposite direction, this is how the pipe rack for introducing electricity should look like (photo). The surface from the inside must be treated with bitumen to protect against corrosion, but it can also be done simply with oil paint. The edge of the pipe at the cut point must be cleaned with a file to remove burrs that can damage the cable insulation.
Wiring selection
Earlier, even before 1991, in order to carry out the input of electricity to the site, wires that did not have insulation (AC grades) were used. But in our time there is a sample designed specifically for aerial cable laying. This instance has insulation that is not afraid of even large temperature differences. He has one more big plus: such a cable does not stretch even when laying and does not need the presence of a supporting cable. The choice when buying will not make you rack your brains, because such a wire is presented only in 2 types: four-core and two-core. In addition, one more important advantage should be noted: for this type of cable, there are many additional accessories on sale designed to connect it withmounts. These are very convenient gizmos, which also do not require any special effort during installation. Worth paying attention to.
Mounting Features
There are 3 ways to install a pipe rack for entering electricity:
- Installation on the roof of a building.
- On the wall.
- As a separate design.
In the first case, the product is mounted directly on the roof, while the pipe passes through the roof structure and is insulated on the reverse side by means of a porcelain sleeve. The switchboard with this option is organized inside the building. The complexity of such an assembly concerns the need to make a through hole in the roof and its subsequent sealing.
In the second case, the pipe rack is installed directly on the wall of the building. Passing through the partition, inside it enters the shield. There they organize the primary distribution of power lines at the facility. This installation option is considered easier and safer due to the fact that the power cable is routed through the non-combustible part of the wall.
And the remaining option is considered the most common. The structure consists of 2 pillars, one of which is intended for the power-receiving unit of the switchboard, and the second is a pipe stand for supplying electricity to the site. The structure is mounted on the border of the territory and provides the usual connection of electricity at the facility. With this method, the point of entry of electricity is completely separated from the house. This explains its demand.
Technical points
In each of the listed options, the pipe rack is a separate engineering structure with its own specific features and compliance with the requirements for objects. In view of the above, the main thing can be distinguished: the pipe rack for the meter requires special attention to specific structural elements:
- Insulation of connecting cable.
- Selection of insulators: porcelain insulators and other systems (depending on the characteristics of the object).
- Pipe shape. Bend at the desired angle depends on the method of installation, for example, it enters the wall at an angle of 90 degrees with an output to the power receiving equipment.
Additional nuances
Installation of a pipe rack for the input of electricity also requires attention to additional technical specifics. When mounting the entry through the wall, it is necessary to take into account the occurrence of a temperature difference, as it will lead to condensation of the liquid from the colder air outside. In this case, it is necessary to protect the conductor from moisture. To do this, drill a hole in the bottom surface of the pipe in the place where it bends. For reliability and quality, it is better to entrust the choice of materials and the installation itself to professionals. The correct input of electricity into the house is a guarantee of its uninterrupted supply from the energy carrier and distribution, which affects the operation of all appliances and household appliances.
Reliability First
If you have to buy a pipe rack, first of all, you need tostudy all the design nuances of the product. Do not neglect this, as the right choice will affect the safety and durability of the selected instance. Information on its implementation and installation features can only be given by a professional. Because it is an experienced craftsman who will take into account such indicators as the risk of glaciation, wind load, and other factors that accompany the stay of the structure on the street. And it should be noted that the cost of installing a pipe rack by a specialist is not so high, but the possible risks from self-assembly in violation of technology can cause much more damage.
Preliminary steps
The beginning of the introduction of electricity to the site is, first of all, a documented approval of the project and obtaining permission after reviewing all the technical conditions in the power supply organization. After the “go-ahead” for the work plan is received from the above-mentioned authority, you can invite a specialist who will install the electrical wiring in accordance with the certified document. Entering electricity into a private building provides for the installation of all components of the internal network. Meters and distribution devices are mounted. As a matter of fact, the supply of electricity to the house is carried out by contractors.
Designer Tube Rack
Let's consider a situation where the technical conditions have already been received by the owner of the site and now it is necessary to connect the house to the network, but the height of the pipe rack for introducing electricity does not allow it to fit into the landscapespoiling the appearance of the site. In this case, you can hire specialists who will make an individual pipe stand for you, which will preserve the harmony of your site and will not go out of style. At the same time, it will fully comply with all technical conditions. As an option: by making a pipe rack outwardly “like a birch tree” or in the form of an abstract figure, the master designer will disguise the intervention of civilization and will not spoil the aesthetics of your holiday.
Self installation
During the introduction of the power line into the house, it is required to perform zeroing on the pipe rack (that is, connect the pipe to the zero core). To do this, a metal bolt is welded to the so-called gander, placing it close to the input insulators. The installed pipe rack will always be under load from the tension of the branch wires. To compensate for this, braces are used from round, having a diameter of 5 mm, steel. A similar support is attached in rings or on bolts, specially welded to the rack for this purpose closer to its upper bend.
When installed in a pipe rack, a steel wire or a cable with a diameter of 3–4 mm is threaded to pull the wires inside the pipe rack with them. For easier pulling of wires, they are first wiped with some soft cloth, and the pipe rack itself is blown from the inside with dry talc. After the cables are pulled, the ends of the pipe are filled with bitumen or closed by stuffing Portland cement moisture-resistant putty into the edges.
A couple of tips indetention
The pipe rack is attached to the wall with brackets and screws. To do this, in concrete, as well as in brick walls, nests for screws are specially arranged, as for hooks for insulators. Bolted connections must be made using locking accessories such as locknuts, spring washers, wire. This precaution will definitely not be superfluous, since the pipe rack installed on the roof or even on the wall will be subject to frequent swinging from the effects of winds, as a result of which self-unscrewing of the nuts is not excluded. And yet, in addition, all bolted connections after the installation of the bushing must be liberally lubricated to protect against corrosion with technical petroleum jelly or some other lubricant.
